Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 988 total · 14/month
Shared By: GWB on May 28, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start below the small roof. Move up through tiny crimps passing 3 bolts, get a decent rest, clip the last bolt, pull through the roof, and move up and right on bigger holds to the anchors.

Location

Start about 15 feet right of the White Light vegetated crack below a high bolt.

Protection

4 bolts and a very light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
FA Ryan Beasley? Sep 1, 2016
Chris Little
Albuquerque N.M.
Chris Little   Albuquerque N.M.
I believe Thomas Kelly and Kris Kline did the first ascent of this line. I wandered up when (Flying) Ryan was leading it. He was happily climbing it, scraping gobs of lichen off, and saying things like "There's NO WAY anybody could have climbed this before!!!" Then Thomas Kelly came wandering up, and asked Ryan, "How do you like my route?" Ryan's mouth fell open and he said "What?" Thomas then explained that the route was listed in the addendum at the back of his book. Did I mention that Ryan had already bolted it? Ryan was cool about it, and so was Thomas. I, however, couldn't resist heckling Ryan. Afterwards, he and Thomas were carrying on a climbing conversation, discussing routes, and I just couldn't resist saying things like "If you want to climb it, do it before Ryan bolts it!" The dihedral to the right was climbed by Dan Flowers and I. It's just to the left of the North Ridge. I think we called it 5.10. I'm pretty sure we were the first to do it because as I was putting in the bolts, Thomas Kelly was there. He didn't say anything about retro-bolting, but my choice of bolts worried him. But they were all I had. We called it "Keep and Arm Bears." NO it's NOT a clever ecological pun; it's a reference to our God-given, Constitutionally protected right of all law-abiding citizens to keep and bear arms. Oct 12, 2017
Dan Flowers
Boone, NC
Dan Flowers   Boone, NC
Hey Chris! I need to go back up to "Bears" and see if the old bolts are still there. I don't know why anyone wouldn't like our 5/16" x 1 1/2" Rawl button-heads! Logged some flight time on those bastards, never pulled one... They went in fast too when you were hand-drilling on lead with a tied-off bit and maybe a skyhook. LOL Jan 22, 2018
Nice to see this story here! I remember the route going at 10+ so maybe I'm confusing routes and stories. Perhaps someone can clarify if there is a 1 bolt route between Tankslapper and North Ridge. Anyway, I was the belayer on the second first ascent of this route with Ryan B. Ryan placed a lone bolt on lead, even taking a whipper when the hook popped. At least we tried to put it up in good style. We later learned that KK had named the route "Look Ma, No Bolts". Instead of asking us to remove the bolt, he renamed the route "Look What They Did To My Route Ma". Feb 20, 2018