Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Ron Dawson (1991?)
Page Views: 1,851 total · 16/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A great route just left of the Peek-a-boo gully. One of my all-time favorite route names, too!

Scramble up a low-angle apron for 15 feet, then step right and head up the finger crack that dead-ends under a little overlap. At this overlap, reach up and clip a bolt, and then either climb left around the overlap (slightly easier) or punch straight up the steep slab. Clip another bolt, then move up through the cool, steep jugs (a third bolt) to a two-bolt anchor on a nice ledge.

Location

The route is located just left of the Peek-a-boo gully. From trail below the east face, locate the crack at the start of this climb, ~75 left of the bottom of Peek-a-boo.

Protection

Some small gear for the finger crack, plus draws for the bolts.

Photos

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Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
 
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
 
Solid pro up to the bolts. The route (which is only 5.9 for the first pitch, before it joins Hidden Crack), has some fun reachy moves at the roof. You can clip the first bolt before pulling the roof. Oct 28, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Exciting CLimb! The first crack section takes mid/small placements perfectly and the bolts are well placed to protect the route well! Some lengthy moves up high but overall a great climb for the grade. Its a route that takes some thought but you will just feel that much smarter after doing it.

Should be named " A Good Climb to be Tall on" Apr 10, 2012
Chrisleath
Johnson City, TN
 
Chrisleath   Johnson City, TN
 
^ Agreed. Apr 16, 2012
Jed N
Raleigh, NC
 
Jed N   Raleigh, NC
 
Fun pumpy climb. Crack protects to roof. Roof has bolt then pockets Aug 6, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9+
This is a good route with one distinctive crux, which is moving past the first bolt. Probably a good idea to plug a few pieces before the first bolt (.5 & 2). Honestly, it seems like you could extend bolted anchors up another 40', which would add some more fun face/slab climbing, while still leaving you enough rope to reach the ground with a 70m - just a thought. You can also lead P1 of Rip-Van-Winkle to the anchors to set up a TR if you're not up for the onsite. Oct 18, 2018