Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,070 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Coz Teplitz on Jun 15, 2009|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
P1: Climb the thin, arching dihedral, being aware of occasionally bad rock. Finish at a hanging stance at two bolts. (5.9, 80 ft) Note: climbing straight up to the bolts has been called 5.10 R. However, I find it much more like 5.7-5.8 R - and there is some pro in there.
P2: Make a hard, awkward move up past the overlap where the bolts are, then move up the obvious, thin feature. One more section of attention-getting climbing (some 5.9 slab at the old bolt) is passed before mantling onto the big ledge with several sets of bolts (the "Attic Window").
I often do this as one 50 m pitch by combining the direct variation of P1 straight into P2. This way, you're not falling directly onto your belayer at the crux, and it makes for a good one-pitch outing.