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Routes in Table Rock

Alternate Reality T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Tears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Stage T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Champ's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cool-down route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornsnake Crack T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackerjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil’s Cellar Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excess Reality T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Garbage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helmet Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Helmet Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobble and Gobble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobbling Hobbit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ICU T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indecent exposure T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irish Stout T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Dandy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Junior's Last Laugh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say Moo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
K-Mart Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lateral Inhibition T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peek-a-Boo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peterbuilt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Refrain T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rip Van Winkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Stanza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sideshow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skip to My Lou T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slippin' into Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solar Plexus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tall Climb to Be Good On T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tankslapper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trundler, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warm Up Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste A Bit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What's Up Doc? T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wooly Aphid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert
Page Views: 1,230 total, 12/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

If you're on the south face, this is a fun diversion. As with all south face routes, this one can get hot.

P1: Climb the thin, arching dihedral, being aware of occasionally bad rock. Finish at a hanging stance at two bolts. (5.9, 80 ft) Note: climbing straight up to the bolts has been called 5.10 R. However, I find it much more like 5.7-5.8 R - and there is some pro in there.

P2: Make a hard, awkward move up past the overlap where the bolts are, then move up the obvious, thin feature. One more section of attention-getting climbing (some 5.9 slab at the old bolt) is passed before mantling onto the big ledge with several sets of bolts (the "Attic Window").

I often do this as one 50 m pitch by combining the direct variation of P1 straight into P2. This way, you're not falling directly onto your belayer at the crux, and it makes for a good one-pitch outing.

Location

This route is located on the South Face, just left of the Crackerjack corner/chimney system. Locate the obvious, right-arching dihedral with a pair of bolts partway up - that's your route.

Protection

Gear to 2".

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
Shear stupidity led me to this route - I wandered up the Crackerjack trail, which bumps directly into the direct start of it.
I had with me a rope, harness, a few slings, and one cam. Seeing a handy pair of bolts 60' up, I figured I might be able to trail a rope and rappel, so I started climbing, straight up toward those shiny metal rings.
All the doggone holds are pointing the wrong way, but underclings and a few decent slopers kept me going. Of course, I realized after 20' that reversing previous moves would be tricky at best; underclings and high steps work well going up but not so well going down.
I began to sweat the details I'd ignored upon arrival - little things like survival - when my wife moseyed up the trail to watch the fun. Much as the predicament amused her, she obliged me a belay as I scoped out the options. A single bottoming crack held some hope that it might hold the one cam I'd accidentally brought along for the ride, so I made my way thence, via another no-going-back sort of move. There is a God, the cam fit. It wasn't inspiring, but it wasn't obvious trash, either, so now my wife's belay might mean something.
Continuing directly upward looked real hard. I opted to slide left toward the corner system, making a couple hairy moves before clutching with desperation and relief the first decent holds of I'd felt in a long while. A pumpy layback sort of move up rightward and I spied a lovely pinchoff behind a block. Threading a runner, I soon had piece #2 ensconced on the route. I continued upward, a few more pumpy moves, utterly neglected the rusted 1/4" rivet, and clipped the anchors.
A quick glance upward made it obvious that continuing on sans gear would be unwise. I opted to rappel. We finished off the day at the Chimneys. I soloed easier, shorter stuff, but the excitement of that short pitch stayed with me the rest of the day.
For those heading up this route, a .75 Maxcam works in that one good slot; roughly that's = to a .5 or .7 C4. Tiny C3s might fit somewhere below, but I doubt they would yield adequate pro. Above that sole slot, I didn't see anything that would hold a real fall until you reach the crack or anchors. Oct 28, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Pretty good route. Nice arching climb with fun moves at the finish. Takes good pro, you just need to be creative with it. Watch out of loose rock and copper heads!! LIttle baby copper head was sitting in the crack when I climbed it and the little guy scared the piss out of me. It later fell out when I was climbing the direct start, which is not that hard or run out. Enjoyable routes to mess around on if your up in that area. Sep 16, 2012
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
I never found the direct start that hard, or even that run out. Although I haven't been down there recently, as I recall it was ~5.7 or 5.8, with a few key spots for gear, including a small tricam. Jan 16, 2012
John Saunders
Cornelius, NC
 
John Saunders   Cornelius, NC
 
Direct version is called Garbage Disposal right? 5.10R Oct 18, 2011