Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert
Page Views: 2,437 total · 14/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

If you're on the south face, this is a fun diversion. As with all south face routes, this one can get hot.

P1: Climb the thin, arching dihedral, being aware of occasionally bad rock. Finish at a hanging stance at two bolts. (5.9, 80 ft) Note: climbing straight up to the bolts has been called 5.10 R. However, I find it much more like 5.7-5.8 R - and there is some pro in there.

P2: Make a hard, awkward move up past the overlap where the bolts are, then move up the obvious, thin feature. One more section of attention-getting climbing (some 5.9 slab at the old bolt) is passed before mantling onto the big ledge with several sets of bolts (the "Attic Window").

I often do this as one 50 m pitch by combining the direct variation of P1 straight into P2. This way, you're not falling directly onto your belayer at the crux, and it makes for a good one-pitch outing.

Location Suggest change

This route is located on the South Face, just left of the Crackerjack corner/chimney system. Locate the obvious, right-arching dihedral with a pair of bolts partway up - that's your route.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2".