Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Karl Rohnke, R.D. McLean (1968) |
Page Views: | 19,837 total · 89/month |
Shared By: | Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A great, exposed route that starts from Lunch Ledge. The best route from Lunch Ledge to the summit.
Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.
Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.
P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)
P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)
P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).
It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.
Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.
Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.
P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)
P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)
P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).
It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.
Location
The route starts from Lunch Ledge.
Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.
Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.
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