Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rohnke, R.D. McLean (1968)
Page Views: 13,702 total · 95/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

186 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


A great, exposed route that starts from Lunch Ledge. The best route from Lunch Ledge to the summit.

Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.

Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.

P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)

P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)

P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).

It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.


The route starts from Lunch Ledge.

Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.


Light rack and quickdraws for the bolts.
Jonathan Petsch
Chattanooga, TN
Jonathan Petsch   Chattanooga, TN
you can do this in two pitches with a 60m rope. no extra pro needed Nov 25, 2007
onsite solo. a good route for the beginning multipitch leader who has become bored with Jim Dandy, Peek-a-boo, Cave Route, and North Ridge. Nov 17, 2009
Scott O
Scott O   Anchorage
Great route. Had a bit of trouble finding a good anchor at the top of pitch 2. Guidebook said natural anchor, but nothing was worthy of slinging. Built a gear anchor on the right side. Apr 4, 2010
Scott, I kept going past that small natural ledge to the small overhang the first time i climbed this route. i cannot stress how much pro you can place here for a natural belay. it does, however, make the last pitch very short and takes away some of the fun. the second time i anchored into the rock face on my left side of the natural belay ledge and used the bolt above for a redirected top belay. cheers Jun 17, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Good Route and dazzling exposure!! First pitch can be done strictly on quick draws, while the second could take a piece of pro or two if your feeling extra cautious, but could "safely" be done with only quick draws as well. The second pitch is surely where the real fun is at, the first roof pull right off the belay is wonderful and exposed (climb high into the crack before pulling the roof, makes it way easier then trying to pull it low) while the second and last roof move is simply delightful! However the second pitch can have some serious rope drag so just be aware of placements and extending things!

  • Free Solo'd it in 9 minutes over Easter weekend, 2012*
Apr 10, 2012
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
Curtis Baird   Johnson City, TN
This is a great route. Great exposer, and a great beginner 5.6 lead. Combine the last two pitches but watch for rope drag. Upper pitch can be wet. A great route in all. Sep 30, 2014
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
Could someone please describe the descent? Is there a decent rap station? Sep 29, 2015
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
We've always just walked off. Sep 30, 2015
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
You can rap with two ropes from the bolted anchor at the top of the last pitch down to the anchors at the top of pitch 1 of My Route, then rap down to the Lunch Ledge. From the bolt anchors on the left side of Lunch Ledge (which would be Jim Dandy's third pitch anchors), you can rap straight down to another set of bolt anchors, then from those to the ground. Sep 30, 2015
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
The beta on the last two pitches is just confusing. The first pitch in this route was super fun, though it's so bolted I'm surprised it's considered traditional climbing. Aug 28, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
This route should not have bolts. May 11, 2018
Did this route yesterday. Seems one could add 3 or 4 bolts here and there, add an anchor at the top of P2 and have a great bolt protected climb. Sucked to carry a rack and only use a couple pieces here and there and build one anchor between two other bolted anchored pitches. This anchor is built on the left side of the grassy ledge with 2 .5 and 1 .75 Camelots and it is trucker. Or as Alex says, why have bolts at all. Jul 1, 2018
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
This climb is well protected and can be climbed with just 1 or 2 extra pieces. Honestly it's pretty chill just clipping the bolts. Definitely no need to bring a whole rack. I find it's easier to climb the last half of the climb in one pitch, skipping the gear belay completely. Jul 2, 2018
Brian Fritz
Chapel Hill, NC
Brian Fritz   Chapel Hill, NC
Descent. Rappel option. Failed attempt. My 60m rope did not reach from the top rap rings to the rap rings at the top of P1. In addition the rope was stuck. Too much friction due to the low angle of top 20ft of the route. Nov 14, 2018