Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rohnke, R.D. McLean (1968)
Page Views: 15,782 total · 96/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

A great, exposed route that starts from Lunch Ledge. The best route from Lunch Ledge to the summit.

Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.

Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.

P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)

P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)

P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).

It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.

Location

The route starts from Lunch Ledge.

Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.

Protection

Light rack and quickdraws for the bolts.

Photos