Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Table Rock

Alternate Reality T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Tears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Stage T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Champ's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cool-down route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornsnake Crack T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackerjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil’s Cellar Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excess Reality T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Garbage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helmet Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Helmet Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobble and Gobble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobbling Hobbit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ICU T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indecent exposure T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irish Stout T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Dandy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Junior's Last Laugh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say Moo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
K-Mart Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lateral Inhibition T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peek-a-Boo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peterbuilt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Refrain T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rip Van Winkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Stanza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sideshow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skip to My Lou T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slippin' into Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solar Plexus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tall Climb to Be Good On T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tankslapper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trundler, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warm Up Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste A Bit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What's Up Doc? T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wooly Aphid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rohnke, R.D. McLean (1968)
Page Views: 12,444 total, 95/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


162 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A great, exposed route that starts from Lunch Ledge. The best route from Lunch Ledge to the summit.

Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.

Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.

P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)

P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)

P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).

It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.

Location

The route starts from Lunch Ledge.

Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.

Protection

Light rack and quickdraws for the bolts.
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
  5.6
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
  5.6
The beta on the last two pitches is just confusing. The first pitch in this route was super fun, though it's so bolted I'm surprised it's considered traditional climbing. Aug 28, 2016
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
 
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
 
You can rap with two ropes from the bolted anchor at the top of the last pitch down to the anchors at the top of pitch 1 of My Route, then rap down to the Lunch Ledge. From the bolt anchors on the left side of Lunch Ledge (which would be Jim Dandy's third pitch anchors), you can rap straight down to another set of bolt anchors, then from those to the ground. Sep 30, 2015
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
 
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
 
We've always just walked off. Sep 30, 2015
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
Could someone please describe the descent? Is there a decent rap station? Sep 29, 2015
Curtis Baird
  5.6
Curtis Baird  
  5.6
This is a great route. Great exposer, and a great beginner 5.6 lead. Combine the last two pitches but watch for rope drag. Upper pitch can be wet. A great route in all. Sep 30, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Good Route and dazzling exposure!! First pitch can be done strictly on quick draws, while the second could take a piece of pro or two if your feeling extra cautious, but could "safely" be done with only quick draws as well. The second pitch is surely where the real fun is at, the first roof pull right off the belay is wonderful and exposed (climb high into the crack before pulling the roof, makes it way easier then trying to pull it low) while the second and last roof move is simply delightful! However the second pitch can have some serious rope drag so just be aware of placements and extending things!

  • Free Solo'd it in 9 minutes over Easter weekend, 2012*
Apr 10, 2012
Scott, I kept going past that small natural ledge to the small overhang the first time i climbed this route. i cannot stress how much pro you can place here for a natural belay. it does, however, make the last pitch very short and takes away some of the fun. the second time i anchored into the rock face on my left side of the natural belay ledge and used the bolt above for a redirected top belay. cheers Jun 17, 2011
Scott O
Anchorage
 
Scott O   Anchorage
 
Great route. Had a bit of trouble finding a good anchor at the top of pitch 2. Guidebook said natural anchor, but nothing was worthy of slinging. Built a gear anchor on the right side. Apr 4, 2010
ziggy  
onsite solo. a good route for the beginning multipitch leader who has become bored with Jim Dandy, Peek-a-boo, Cave Route, and North Ridge. Nov 17, 2009
Jonathan Petsch
Chattanooga, TN
 
Jonathan Petsch   Chattanooga, TN
 
you can do this in two pitches with a 60m rope. no extra pro needed Nov 25, 2007