Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Tom Howard and partner
Page Views: 1,423 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joseph Brown on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: Climb straight up the face to double anchors shared with "Slippin into Darkness". Plenty of side pulls and foot stances to make this a tame 5.8 climb.

Location

Just left of "Slippin into Darkness" right below the shared belay ledge.

Protection

No bolts, but good small/med pro placements. Double rap anchors on ledge.

Photos

- No Photos -
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.8
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.8
This route is shown in "Selected Climbs", but unfortunately it's only annotated on the topo map. If anyone knows the FA history, please comment so that I can properly document the route. Oct 23, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
The old Kelley Guide lists "Tom Howard et al" for the FA on this one. Oct 27, 2009
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.8
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.8
Thanks for the update! Oct 31, 2009
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
As I recall, this variation was FA'd solo by Tom Howard. I always found it slopey and awkward, and apparently so did Mr. Howard, who called it "KFN" for "Kinda F-ing (G)narly". Apparently, Mr. Howard climbed this in the days before spellcheck.

NOTE - this is the story I heard in the mid-2000s from old-school OB folks. Accuracy is, of course, questionable. Nov 11, 2010
Great 100 ft. top rope. I would rate it 5.8 X Mar 6, 2011
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8 X
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.8 X
Really fun technical face climbing with interesting moves the entire way up. Set up a top rope by climbing Helmet Buttress or Slippin. I wouldn't suggest leading this one as the pro is very sparse until the last 20 feet of the climb I found a placement for a pretty solid c4. I did climb up the right side of the buttress so the pro may be better climbing up the left side.

  • Description notes that the route takes good small to medium cams. I would note that they are okay and very sparse at best. Wouldn't recommend onsighting this even if it's well below your usual grade. Thats just me however.
Jul 1, 2013
We climbed the face of the buttress, Jim Micky and I, and found a OB helmet on the ledge on top of the buttress. At that time the right side of the buttress was full of grass and vegetation as was the top of the buttress. We did not climb the right side. The "KFN" story is BS, though I am a poor speller.

Tom Howard Mar 9, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Yeah, whenever I rappel down this face, I see NO protection for a lead climb, May 28, 2017