Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Gravely (date unknown)
Page Views: 2,042 total · 17/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This fun pitch climbs from Lunch Ledge to Lightning Ledge on the East Face. According to Jeep Barrett, the name comes from the shoes worn by Jim Gravely on the FA. Apparently, the shoes - proudly procured at the Morganton K-Mart - failed Gravely on the slippery slab moves at the very end. At the time, no bolt guarded these moves, and he took a 30 footer (Gravely OK'ed the addition of the bolt).

From the two-bolt anchor on the lower left side of Lunch Ledge, climb straight up, passing two bolts on the way to a big roof/overlap. Ape out on big holds, clipping an old pin en route. After the roof, move straight up toward the ledge. When you hit the fateful slab move, you'll be glad you're wearing sticky rubber.

Location

This route starts from the two-bolt anchor on the lower left side of Lunch Ledge.

Protection

A light rack is all that is needed.

Photos

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Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
  5.7+
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
  5.7+
Not as interesting as My Route, but certainly more exposed and diverse than Block Route in my opinion. The top is well protected with a bolt and fixed pin, but be cautious as the crux move is often a wet and glassy 5.8 move to Lightning Ledge. Jun 18, 2012
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.7
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.7
I agree with Cody, this is a better alternative than is neighbor to the right block route. Make sure to bring long runners to extend gear below the two roofs. I've done this climb many times and usually the top out is wet so be prepared. There is a bolt to protect the top (crux) thats usually wet. Nov 21, 2012