Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Joe Coates (year unknown)
Page Views: 1,001 total · 31/month
Shared By: Adam Gallimore on Sep 5, 2021
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb the long first pitch of Peek-a-Boo to the bolted anchor. Turn to your left and locate the bolt about 15 feet off the belay. Slab up, clip the bolt, and choose one of two ways to continue. Either go straight above the bolt for a harder line but better feet and bigger moves, or move up and left of the bolt for some crimps and side-pulls but slightly worse feet. Whatever way you choose, reach the large roof above and plug some medium cams. Continue up and left over some committing moves but solid rock following the roof crack. You can find some occasional jams and solid stances to place gear. The climb eventually pulls out the roof and spits you on a ledge. Slab up the remaining 30 feet to a bolted rap station/belay. 

Descent beta: You can do a short rap from here to the Wooly Aphid anchor below the roof. From there, do a rope stretching rap with a 60m to the intermediate anchor climbers left on the vegetated tree ledge. I would either take a 70m or double 60s next time as we were right on our knots and had to down-aid a move to reach the ledge. 

Location Suggest change

Starts on the ledge above Jim Dandy. Follows the same first pitch of Peek-a-Boo. 

Protection Suggest change

Single rack of cams to a #3 C4. Could use doubles in 0.5 and 0.75 but not necessary if you carry tri-cams.