Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,506 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: Climb up the right-facing corner. Then traverse right and up to the vegetated ledge. Walk right along the ledge to belay at bolts and rings. (75 feet)

P2&3: Climb straight up from the belay. Trend slightly left around the overhang above, clipping a fixed piton. Continue up the obvious weakness, past short cracks and a bolt. Belay at bolts and rings on the lower-angled terrain above (belay sometimes wet), or continue along easier climbing to bolts and rings at the left end of the Lunch Ledge. Most parties combine pitch 2&3. (150 feet)

Location

On the east face of Table Rock. Heading left from the Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress (a large buttress with a wide slot on the left side), the first right-facing corner system you come to is Slippin' Into Darkness(5.9), on the right edge of the Helmet Buttress. Continue around the Helmet Buttress to the left to a shorter, lower-angled right facing corner. This is the start of the Helmet Buttress route.

Protection

standard rack, top of each pitch has bolted anchors & rap rings

Photos

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
I actually think this is a decent route - worth a few stars at least. I like P1 quite a bit, and the moves up to and just past the pin on P2 I find quite enjoyable.

Two warnings: (1) the pin on P2 may or may not be in place. A smaller cam (maybe tips-size) easily backs up the pin, so you can get the gear if it's not. (2) The traverse on P1 is a little runout; people have been known to slip off and then fall back into the corner - ouch. There are a few ways of doing this traverse, though, and one of them is reasonably protected. If you are uncomfortable with the gear, look around and be creative. Oct 25, 2008
Josh Gray
Loveland, CO
Josh Gray   Loveland, CO
Pulled off a brick sized block from the overhang on the first pitch before the route goes right. There is some orange rotten rock on this route. Its not called the helmet buttress for no reason! Jul 2, 2009
Caution: I think the traverse move above the fixed pin is now much harder than 5.6 as holds may be gone. The crack ends at a short headwall and I've fallen twice on sloping feet without much for hands while attempting to make the traverse. The fixed nut protects well, but the swinging fall isn't real clean. Nov 12, 2012
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.7
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.7
Didn't see a fixed pin or stopper as mentioned in the previous comment. However, I did find a great placement for an offset master cam (#3/4 I think) and tiny flake for a small brass (DMM purple) to protect before the traverse. Like many Table Rock slab sections it's easy to make the slab traverse more difficult than it really is; I did. Overall a fun climb with the traverse keeping you on your toes; pun intended. Wouldn't recommend this climb for a blooming 5.6 or 5.7 leader (tricky gear where it counts the most). Jul 15, 2013
Andrew Z  
 
Excellent route, better than North Ridge, in my opinion. Few tricky sections that are spooky only because there’s nowhere to place gear, but definitely a blast to climb. Left bolt at “P3” belay station is loose and wobbly, use at your own risk. Easy to combine P2 and P3 however. Plan to rappel off, we didn’t top out but I’m sure you could top out after 100’ or so with mild climbing on mossy and dirty rock. Route is easy to identify but dont pay attention to the railroad ties in front of Peek-a-boo as a reference being the “only steps” on the trail as more steps have been added further up the trail. Nov 22, 2018