Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mickey Craig, Tom Howard, Jim Dailey - 1973
Page Views: 4,605 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


81 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb the obvious right-facing dihedral using locks, crimps and stemming. Mantle onto a ledge to find fixed rappel anchors.

Protection

Small cams and stoppers, cams up to 2".

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
I thought this was much easier and there is a second pitch that takes you to the big ledge. The actual crux (about 5.6) is right off the belay ledge.

All gear, except for the belays. Nov 6, 2006
Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
  5.9
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
  5.9
I might be thinking of a different route....I think this one is also called Slipping Into Darkness? Or at least the one I tried to add to the database. It's only one pitch; are you familiar, Chris? Nov 8, 2006
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Yes, there are three "Helmet Buttress" routes. I believe the standard is a 5.6 that starts in a right-facing corner on the left side of the helmet feature. "Helmet Variation" takes a runout 5.8 line more or less up the middle of the helmet, and "Slippin' Into Darkness" goes up the classic right-facing corner on the right side of the helmet. This one sounds like the one that's described in the description. Nov 15, 2006
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
I did the 5.6 flake and continued to the big ledge. Didn't do any of the other variations. Dec 27, 2006
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
I find Slippin' to be quite easy for the grade - I think it's more like 5.8. Still, good fun for a few moves. Oct 25, 2008
Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
 
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
 
Leaving the belay ledge to start the second pitch can be rather intimidating. It's only rated 5.6, but protection is minimal and unseen. Look straight up and slightly left to spot a rusted piton. That's your first good protection. Oct 28, 2010
John Saunders
Cornelius, NC
  5.10a
John Saunders   Cornelius, NC
  5.10a
Was told that there were two variations and that I kept following the harder one. There's an easy escape to the face that is the soft 9 version, but was told that continuing to the very top of the crack to the crystal hold was more like 9+/10a Apr 26, 2011
Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
  5.9-
Rick Carpenter   Marion, NC
  5.9-
Great route! Finished the last few moves in the rain. Pretty mellow for a table rock 5.9 Jun 18, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Excellent crack climbing, as far as it goes here in NC! Quality climbing with superb gear! A must do at Table Rock! Mar 13, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.9
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.9
The upper part of this climb is killer and felt like great 5.9 moves to me. I saw no pitons not sure what people are talking about it being 5.6 Apr 14, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9
I wasn't to keen on this route the first time I climbed it, mostly because it was wet. Racked up to give it another go and have to say this puppy is fun and totally worth the lead. The first wide section before the ledge is mellow and takes good pro, while the second thin section is engaging until the anchors. Very fun climb.

  • Does anybody think the anchors on the ledge could use replacing?
Mar 5, 2014
Jed N
Raleigh, NC
  5.9
Jed N   Raleigh, NC
  5.9
First part of climb to ledge is fairly easy 5.6-7. From ledge, the corner to top of pitch has a move or two in the 5.9 range. Aug 6, 2014
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
  5.9
Curtis Baird   Johnson City, TN
  5.9
This is a great route! The crack eats gear, very safe climb. Wish it was longer then it would rival White Lightning. May 12, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Easiest 5.9 in the world. It's barely 5.8. Great climb, though. May 28, 2017
Josh Platt
High Country, NC
 
Josh Platt   High Country, NC
 
Maybe 5.9 at the very top if you stay in the corner. If you pull over the arete to the face, then I'd say 5.8. It is super fun though! Dec 6, 2017
Dan Flowers
Boone, NC
Dan Flowers   Boone, NC
One of my nostalgia climbs. It was my first lead over 5.7 and I did it with Mickey Craig one of the FA climbers. Mickey put me on it because the gear was so good and it was a safe route. I highly recommend it. RIP Mickey. You are missed. Jan 22, 2018