Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Doc Klein, Ron Dawson, Jeep Barrett
Page Views: 3,505 total · 27/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Apr 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

For climbers that like technical face, this is one of the best. Fire in a piece of gear before the first bolt. Clip the bolt then fire left and up(crux) to a ledge. Move right to another bolt. Climb left then straight up passing several bolts and a great gear pod to reach a bolted anchor at 95 ft.

Location

Starts just to the right of Slippin into Darkness, beneath a bolt.

Protection

4 bolts, tcus to yellow, small tricams, purple camalot.

Photos

Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Super Fun route! Balancey and technical but everything is there for sure! Protects very well, bring small stuff for the top, and goes with just a little daring! For anyone who is into small techy climbing this is a must do! Less then vertical so it lets you take your time as well! Sep 16, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10+ PG13
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10+ PG13
Sustained technical climbing, awesome route. Almost every move is in the 10 grade. Apr 14, 2013
Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
  5.10c PG13
Rick Carpenter   Marion, NC
  5.10c PG13
Fun for the grade, the crux seemed to be just prior to the first bolt. The rest of the climb was a balance act which seemed like moderate 5.10. Jun 5, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.10d PG13
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.10d PG13
This is a great route and I think the PG13 rating is legit - there are several spots you wouldn't want to blow it while pluggin gear and/or clipping a bolt. 5.10+ also feels pretty legit especially if you're short. Pretty sustained face climbing for the entire route. TCUs and tricams protect the runs between bolts. Nov 3, 2016
Chris Little
Albuquerque N.M.
 
Chris Little   Albuquerque N.M.
 
I agree: this is a great route. It's not pumpy, so you can take your time and figure out moves and protection. The bottom has all the bolts you could need. After you clip the last bolt, it looks run out. But you can get all the pro you need. Based on that, I would not have given it a PG13. When I did it, I was pretty solid at this grade, so the upper half didn't intimidate me. The second time I tried it, I bailed after the last bolt and buggered back down. I wouldn't dare trying to top rope it right now. Oct 24, 2017
Dan Flowers
Boone, NC
Dan Flowers   Boone, NC
Fantastic route. Nice and sustained, but gives you a needed rest on a thin ledge near the top. You'll need a .5 tricam or similar for a horizontal crack in the gap between the last 2 bolts. The leader should try to protect the second on the traverse from the last bolt over to the belay ledge to prevent a swinging fall into the corner. Took a pretty long fall on this route once when I blew off near the top. Nice clean fall though, nothing to hit. Past the ledgy stuff at the bottom, it's a license to fly. Aug 20, 2018