Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rohnke
Page Views: 5,152 total · 38/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

Another of the fun East Face routes, this route climbs to the left edge of Lunch Ledge. Although done as a "sport" route, some gear makes this a little more palatable, especially on the second pitch.

A short approach pitch leads up the slab just to the left of the start of Helmet Buttress. This "pitch" is short - all of 30 feet. One can also scramble up just to the right of Jim Dandy.

P1: Climb straight up off of ledge, clipping two bolts, until level with the ledge on P1 of Jim Dandy. Clip a third bolt, then traverse up and right, passing a pin and several more bolts. (A small cam in the traverse can lessen the potential swing for a partner.) As the climbing eases, continue moving up and right to a belay stance in a small alcove with two bolts. (120 ft., 5.6)

P2: Climb up and right past two bolts, then up easier ground toward Lunch Ledge. (80 ft., 5.5)

Location

This popular route is located between Jim Dandy and Helmet Buttress on the East Face of TR. Just to the right of Jim, locate the big tree ledge 30 feet up. The ledge is easily reached by climbing from either side.

Protection

Mostly bolts, although some gear can reduce runouts, especially on P2. A light rack is all that is necessary.

Photos