Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rohnke
Page Views: 4,182 total · 36/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Another of the fun East Face routes, this route climbs to the left edge of Lunch Ledge. Although done as a "sport" route, some gear makes this a little more palatable, especially on the second pitch.

A short approach pitch leads up the slab just to the left of the start of Helmet Buttress. This "pitch" is short - all of 30 feet. One can also scramble up just to the right of Jim Dandy.

P1: Climb straight up off of ledge, clipping two bolts, until level with the ledge on P1 of Jim Dandy. Clip a third bolt, then traverse up and right, passing a pin and several more bolts. (A small cam in the traverse can lessen the potential swing for a partner.) As the climbing eases, continue moving up and right to a belay stance in a small alcove with two bolts. (120 ft., 5.6)

P2: Climb up and right past two bolts, then up easier ground toward Lunch Ledge. (80 ft., 5.5)

Location

This popular route is located between Jim Dandy and Helmet Buttress on the East Face of TR. Just to the right of Jim, locate the big tree ledge 30 feet up. The ledge is easily reached by climbing from either side.

Protection

Mostly bolts, although some gear can reduce runouts, especially on P2. A light rack is all that is necessary.

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Taylor starting pitch one after scramble
Taylor starting pitch one after scramble
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End of fun slab traverse on P1.
End of fun slab traverse on P1.
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6 Comments

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Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
I know this route has long been rated 5.6, but I thought P1 was no harder than P1 of Jim Dandy. Both are fun. Dec 4, 2010
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
It's definitely harder than Jim Dandy, although not by a huge amount. It's more vertical, and the holds are smaller. Some of them are quite polished, too. Jun 6, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
An excellent sibling route to Jim Dandy! Pretty much runs parallel to Jim Dandy just 15 feet bellow. More sustained climbing, less crowded, and overall funtastic "Skip to My Lou" is a great route to do on busy days or once you have finally realized you cannot climb "Jim Dandy" for the 100th time! Can be climbed on only quick draws and is well bolted, but there are plenty of potential pro placements through out each pitch. Makes you ask yourself why it's bolted in the first place?!

  • HIghly Recommended*
Apr 10, 2012
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.6
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.6
A touch more difficult than Jim Dandy but also a better overall route. Bring a light rack and plenty of extendable draws. During the summer months wasp like to nest in the crack after the traverse so just move with caution - I've seen bats in there as well so just be careful not to bother them too much. Dec 2, 2013
Cody Ashe
Brevard
 
Cody Ashe   Brevard
 
Got a blue camp nut stuck about 20 feet from the anchors. Jul 7, 2015
Scott Phil
NC
Scott Phil   NC
Got on this one again for the first time in many years. Great climb. There are opportunities for pro between the bolts and pitons. The second pitch was still wet, so we rapped down from the first pitch anchors (w/ rap rings). Two ropes are needed to reach the ground from here.

Difficulty varies some depending on the line you follow. I haven't been on Jim Dandy in ages, but believe Skip is a notch harder. It is more vertical, with fewer bolts on the first pitch, and it is more exposed. You can get a good sense of both first pitches from the ground. Jul 2, 2016