Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Karl Rohnke |
Page Views: | 7,054 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Coz Teplitz on Jun 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Another of the fun East Face routes, this route climbs to the left edge of Lunch Ledge. Although done as a "sport" route, some gear makes this a little more palatable, especially on the second pitch.
A short approach pitch leads up the slab just to the left of the start of Helmet Buttress. This "pitch" is short - all of 30 feet. One can also scramble up just to the right of Jim Dandy.
P1: Climb straight up off of ledge, clipping two bolts, until level with the ledge on P1 of Jim Dandy. Clip a third bolt, then traverse up and right, passing a pin and several more bolts. (A small cam in the traverse can lessen the potential swing for a partner.) As the climbing eases, continue moving up and right to a belay stance in a small alcove with two bolts. (120 ft., 5.6)
P2: Climb up and right past two bolts, then up easier ground toward Lunch Ledge. (80 ft., 5.5)
A short approach pitch leads up the slab just to the left of the start of Helmet Buttress. This "pitch" is short - all of 30 feet. One can also scramble up just to the right of Jim Dandy.
P1: Climb straight up off of ledge, clipping two bolts, until level with the ledge on P1 of Jim Dandy. Clip a third bolt, then traverse up and right, passing a pin and several more bolts. (A small cam in the traverse can lessen the potential swing for a partner.) As the climbing eases, continue moving up and right to a belay stance in a small alcove with two bolts. (120 ft., 5.6)
P2: Climb up and right past two bolts, then up easier ground toward Lunch Ledge. (80 ft., 5.5)
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