Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Roy Crawford, Grey Amburgey - late 70s |
Page Views: | 2,993 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Chuck Parks on Oct 26, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A really fun climb -- at least until you have to top out.
Follow the corner system up to a stance below the roof. Suss out the holds, get in some good protection, and then pull around the right side of the roof. Continue to follow the crack system up to the clean face above. Good holds lead to the top. This is where the fun ends.
You are presented with three options for topping out:
Door #1: Continue straight up, over featureless white slab to a carpet of moss and then a completely impassable rhododendron thicket. If you are a) related to a weasel, or b) climb with a machete, then this may be the choice for you.
Door #2: Traverse around left to a corner/ramp system that looks like it might lead to the top. Rope drag may be problematic. This path was also running with water when I got there, so I chose...
Door #3: Traverse right about 10 feet, and then claw your way up a steep chute of moss, loose dirt and dead vegetation for about 20 feet or so until you reach a sturdy pine tree for a belay.
Descent- scramble/bushwhack your way to the summit and walk off.
Follow the corner system up to a stance below the roof. Suss out the holds, get in some good protection, and then pull around the right side of the roof. Continue to follow the crack system up to the clean face above. Good holds lead to the top. This is where the fun ends.
You are presented with three options for topping out:
Door #1: Continue straight up, over featureless white slab to a carpet of moss and then a completely impassable rhododendron thicket. If you are a) related to a weasel, or b) climb with a machete, then this may be the choice for you.
Door #2: Traverse around left to a corner/ramp system that looks like it might lead to the top. Rope drag may be problematic. This path was also running with water when I got there, so I chose...
Door #3: Traverse right about 10 feet, and then claw your way up a steep chute of moss, loose dirt and dead vegetation for about 20 feet or so until you reach a sturdy pine tree for a belay.
Descent- scramble/bushwhack your way to the summit and walk off.
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