Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Roy Crawfore, Grey Amburgey - late 70s
Page Views: 1,784 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


A really fun climb -- at least until you have to top out.

Follow the corner system up to a stance below the roof. Suss out the holds, get in some good protection, and then pull around the right side of the roof. Continue to follow the crack system up to the clean face above. Good holds lead to the top. This is where the fun ends.

You are presented with three options for topping out:

Door #1: Continue straight up, over featureless white slab to a carpet of moss and then a completely impassable rhododendron thicket. If you are a) related to a weasel, or b) climb with a machete, then this may be the choice for you.

Door #2: Traverse around left to a corner/ramp system that looks like it might lead to the top. Rope drag may be problematic. This path was also running with water when I got there, so I chose...

Door #3: Traverse right about 10 feet, and then claw your way up a steep chute of moss, loose dirt and dead vegetation for about 20 feet or so until you reach a sturdy pine tree for a belay.

Descent- scramble/bushwhack your way to the summit and walk off.


Starts from the right end of the Lightning Ledge. From the P3 anchors at the top of Cave Route, a crack/corner system leads up past a roof to the summit.


standard rack, belay from trees at top


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Jason Schmidt
Ghent, MN
Jason Schmidt   Ghent, MN
Thanks for adding, it is really pretty fun. Except the top, climbed it this fall, I to decided to head right, might have made it look like the way to go by clearing vegetation. Upon reflection and looking at a guide book, the route is meant to head left after the roof, so as fun as the jugs going straight up are, trend left. Done correctly it might be fun the whole time. Nov 29, 2009
I did this a couple yrs ago , I think it should be cleaned off a little and would be a great summit route. I had no choice but to take Door #1 as everything else was running water. Mantleing up on moss into the Rodo thicket was insane, I used a rodo leaf as a "hold" and crawled on my belly through the 30' thicket. Best onsight of my life! Oct 15, 2012
Jack Brazil
Mars Hill, NC
Jack Brazil   Mars Hill, NC
Be sure to protect your second on this route, especially while traversing the small roof to the right. If they fall the crack can snag the rope and leave your follower dangling with no way to ascend. Luckily the crack is not very sharp but can still present a challenging situation. Additionally there is a tat nest in very bad condition near the top of the route, it appears somebody had rapped off of this recently because I found a brand new locker on the nest. Rapping off this would avoid the bushwhack to the summit but I believe that is a dangerous choice. Just take it slow, go straight up between the two laurel bushes and above will be a boulder with opportunities for a good gear anchor, from the boulder it is 50ft of 4th class to the summit. A fun and adventurous route, however I would not recommend this for an aspiring 5.7 leader. Mar 19, 2019