Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Bragg & Steve Wunsch (P1) Rich Perch & John Bragg (P2)
Page Views: 5,369 total · 41/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 26, 2008 with improvements by Jeffrey Dunn and 1 other
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


One of the Seasons routes, obviously, the Winter is considered by many to be a testpiece for 5.10. The crux is the thin corner, but you'll already have had to overcome a few challenges before you get there.

P1: Start below an overhanging right-facing corner ~15' right of Bold-Ville. Make your way up the corner, clipping several fixed pins of dubious quality, and aim for the fixed tat above. A more secure, modern two-bolt anchor is at the back of the ledge above and to the right.

P2 (description from Wonderwoman): From the two bolt anchor on top of first pitch of the Spring, move right to the white open book. Continue up the white rock, toward the roof.

Once you get to a widely gapped horizontal, large enough to stand and take a nice rest on, put in a piece of gear and get ready for the crux! Move left from this ledge for the better holds and high feet towards the roof.

Once under the roof, place more gear and start heading right to a v-notch (LOOSE ROCK!), where the roof ends. Head up through the notch to the one remaining piton.

From here, look right and traverse to the anchor on top of the pillar.

Descent: 100ft rap from here.


Just left of the Fall at a right facing corner.


Thin to medium gear.


But you would be missing something if you didn't do the second pitch... The second pitch of the spring that is...

Combining the two into a single pitch makes for an exciting lead...

The second pitch of the spring is a bit wild and committing, a contrast to the technical crux of the winter's corner...

Hey Rich! Clip that pin behind your left calf! (or not).. Aug 26, 2008
bheller   SL UT
For the best experience, you must do the Winter-Spring direct in one pitch- 70m is fine. This is a bit confusing from the names, because the routes criss-cross, but just climb the thin corner straight up about 100ft or so through the high roofs. An anchor for lowering exists. Techy corner down low, committing roof with big air up high- a fine route. I wish the middle sections were more engaging. Sep 18, 2010
The roof of spring is not R. I found a pacement for offset alien green-blue just below crux. Take it if you have it. Otherwise good pro is a foot or two lower Aug 20, 2013
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
Agreed--do the whole thing to the top of The Spring's 2nd pitch ("The Winter Direct"?). Totally amazing.

Solid fixed tat at the top to rap off. We set up a TR using a 60m rope--just barely long enough. Tie knots in the end! Sep 21, 2015
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.11a PG13
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.11a PG13
If there ever were pins at the bottom section - they are now gone. Only one pin on the first pitch. P1 is deceptively hard stemming with a commiting run-out crux sequence before you get to a good stance to clip the pin. Leading this from ground up would be a proud accomplishment, with some heady run-outs over your gear. Definitely a classic gunks sand-bag at 5.10d - would call it 5.11a/b due to the v3 crux.
Look forward to coming back to this route and bagging the redpoint. Dec 7, 2017
Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington VT
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington VT
This route has bomber gear the whole first pitch. It looks thin through the corner but it is easily protected with normal small/medium nuts. You'll be fine without RPs or brassies but just be ready to place the gear quickly. Amazing pitch and worth trying to onsite! Apr 15, 2018