Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Danny Kholert, 1986
Page Views: 2,722 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.

(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)

Location

The route starts just right of Extreme Unction and just left of the Outer Darkness Chimney.

Protection

Some small to medium cams and there are some good nut placements as well.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
The moves to reach the 1st bolt can be protected with a #1 BD. It's a blind placement in a nice horizontal and you can readjust the cam from the last good hold before getting down to business.
There's also a great .75 placement above the 2nd bolt just to the left of the arete that protects the upper section.
A few micros protect the last easy bit of climbing. Jun 22, 2009
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
 
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
 
Tried this today and got sucked to the right after the 2nd bolt where a good hold appears. Was fun but not the route I was going for, next time I guess. Could this be a new variation? LOL Sep 25, 2009
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
For me 2 #1 camalots and a 0.75 were plenty to stitch this up. No need for gear above the second obvious red camalot where unction roof meets the arete/face. And the crux moves are protected by well placed bolts. Short but so sweet. And yeah definitely go right onto that arete - where you do it is debatable - my partner went higher for it than I did, but you are missing out on the best moves of the route going right. Jun 6, 2012
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.11c/d
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.11c/d
Love this route, led it today for the first time. Fell crux both times I attempted it, but I have the sequence now and will send on my next burn. I did not use a BD, it was way too big for any pockets that I saw. I placed a blue master cam to protect up to the first bolt. I would love to know where you sneaking in such a large cam. I could have just missed it, but I looked around for a while without success. Jun 27, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fantastic climb. I like the variety - jugs at the start, crimps and arete-slapping through the bolts, easy weird fergy climbing to the chains.

I used a blue metolius below the first bolt (no extension needed), a red mastercam (green BD) above the second bolt, and a #1 BD above that. Not sure where gear could go above that, but the climbing is easy. Very well protected. Sep 5, 2013
Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.11d
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.11d
My favorite route so far in Fergie and my favorite sport route in a while. Jun 8, 2014
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.11c/d
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.11c/d
So I was on this route again today, still my favorite mixed route. I had a question for all those who've climbed it. Has anyone tried a variation where instead of topping the slab and moving right to the obvious #1 C4, you push left and finish on Unction's roof section? I didn't have a chance to try it today, but sounds like it could be fun. I felt by itself the route is 11+, but adding the roof I think it would maybe be more on the d side of plus than c. Curious what people think. Will report if people are interested next time I'm on it. Jun 22, 2014
Ben Folsom
  5.11d
Ben Folsom  
  5.11d
Hey Josh, I usually finish Fishlips on the Unction roof. I think it is a funner finish than the original. Not sure what effect that way has upon the rating, but since you get such a good rest below the roof, and the roof is way easier than Fishlips, probably doesn't make that much difference. It is however, a better finish to the route. Jun 22, 2014
Donovan Allen
Soft Lake City
 
Donovan Allen   Soft Lake City
 
2#1 and a .75 were enough. Great route. One of Fergusons best. Oct 5, 2016