Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Stroud, Gordon Douglass 1988
Page Views: 187 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is definitely a "sporty" route! Two bolts for protection. Start below the first bolt and climb directly up beneath it. Tricky climbing passes the bolt to another bolt (don't fall clipping #2). The climbing eases above bolt #2. Continue on to the Invocation Anchor. Despite the "sporty" nature of the route, if you climb solid at the grade, the two bolts are exactly adequate protection.

Location

This is the direct start to "Invocation". The route starts just left of "Crown of Thorns" on the right side of the Watchtower.

Protection

2 bolts + 2 bolt/chain anchor.

Photos

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Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11c PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11c PG13
That thing is hard. I'd describe it as spooky 10+ to a burly V3 crux then easy but scary climbing above. Very in your face from the start with a scary deadpoint and big moves. I brought a pad and felt somewhat OK with it.
The crux seems to be height dependent although people with solid footwork might not be bothered.

Candidate for a bolt update? That 1st one is starting to spin, the part of the sleeve that is visible is way rusty and seems bent. Aug 7, 2009
Ben Folsom
  5.11b/c
Ben Folsom  
  5.11b/c
I took a couple falls on that bolt figuring out the move a few weeks ago. I'm sure it's okay, but I was pretty relieved each time it caught. A very worthy candidate for replacement IMO. It looks like it would be easy to pull and redrill the same hole. This one should definitely be on the list. It's a great variation with a big move. Aug 7, 2009