Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 569 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the big chimney to the right of the classic Extreme Unction. Not bad for a chimney, with the exit move being the so-called crux. A good approach to the top.

Protection

Medium to large gear, and some slings.

Photos

joe t
slc
 
joe t   slc
 
A nice first lead. Lets you know why Trad guys bring all of those slings. May 5, 2006
Jon Behrmann
Herriman
Jon Behrmann   Herriman
Good lead but i wouldn't do it for my first one. Fun climb different climbing than any granite in little cottonwood Aug 8, 2009
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4
Totally sandbagged! But in all seriousness it's actually a fun climb for a chimney. Crux is down low, getting into the narrower part. Just grab and haul. Anchors on the boulder up top are horribly placed, bring some extra long slings to extend it out. Sep 20, 2013
Chris Hfsda
  5.6
Chris Hfsda  
  5.6
I'm a decent sized guy. My chest was almost bigger than the chimney - hard to move. For me, this climb was far harder than confessional or inner light and almost as hard as extreme unction. Aug 27, 2017
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.6
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.6
Excellent climb. Probably 5.6 for most people? Bring a #4 cam if you want pro in the upper chimney. Aug 2, 2018