Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,679 total · 31/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

This face is great. Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging. Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines. A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.

Protection

Ruckman has this at 5.7R but I see very little opportunity for protection on the first half of this climb, and the crease up the top half is a bit flared. It is easily top-roped off two new bolts in a big boulder on the southeast corner of the buttress. There are some older chains one tier down from the top that could be used as well. Either setup will give you quite a bit of rope drag so I'd recommend some long (30') slings and possibly some big cams or hexes as a directional to your toprope setup. Scramble around the west side of the first Watchtower wall to get up there...not too difficult.

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.7
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.7
I would agree with the protection or lack of on this route. Tough lead, I ended up top-roping it. Apr 22, 2004
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
This is a good lead. There isn't very much protection, but it's there. I recommend small aliens, maybe Blue through Yellow, plus some slightly larger cams or TCUs too. I think I even got a #1 or #2 Camalot in somewhere up higher. A great belayer is also recommended. Apr 14, 2005
Black Alien, or creative nutting take the teeth right'outta this beauty. Protectable, but yes, you have to climb the first 10/15 feet to that gear. A great lead ! Lets hope it doesn't sprout a bolt! Giove it a shot, and you will find it to be a very rewarding lead (just have a spotter!!) May 23, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.7
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.7
Finally, got this redpoint thanks to Bobby Hanson bringing the small stuff. 2-3 micro cams, and then you are on easy street. A good spotter wouldn't be a bad idea either. A very balancey and heady lead. Jun 5, 2005
There is tons of pro on this climb. If you want to and are a tiny bit creative, you can get either bomber small cams or great nuts in about every 3 feet from the bottom to the top. So yeah, if this ever sprouted a bolt, it would be a real shame! Sep 9, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.7
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.7
Agreed, great gear, although the first piece feels a bit high if you're warming up on this. You can make the route a tad bit harder by keeping the left arete and the crack on the right off. I know, contrived eliminate, but it adds some cool mantely moves on the upper section. Jun 7, 2009
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.7 PG13
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.7 PG13
Pretty fun! Jun 26, 2010
Ryan Goslin
Rumney, NH
  5.7 PG13
Ryan Goslin   Rumney, NH
  5.7 PG13
finally redpointed this...adequate gear that is solid but tricky. I used a red c3 and a blue metolious for micro cams on the start, then a standard rack for the rest. May 15, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
I agree. The pro is all there if you look for it. Small, small cams though for bottom face. A yellow or red C3. Fun route though! Jun 10, 2013
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.7
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.7
Good free solo route. The holds are definitely there. Jun 17, 2013
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I really enjoyed this. The angle of the first 15-20 is just less than vertical, so you can use really small holds that would normally make a climb pretty hard. The route demands a lot of balance and some good foot work.
Probably the most technical easy climb I've done. Jul 20, 2013
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I would add that this one is a bit tougher for the shorter folk. I'm 6'0" and found that the reaches between good holds were not too bad. My wife at 5'4" found them more exhilarating. The pro I used is below:






#2 BD C3
#2 BD Camalot
#0.5 BD Camalot May 28, 2014
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.7 R
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.7 R
Only thing I got on the face for pro was a blue metolius master cam (#1), pretty high up. I didn't plug anymore until reaching the obvious fissure directly above with a WC Helium yellow (#2). If you stick to the right, as the guide suggests I think R is fair, ie. with only my one piece on the face I had ground fall potential while placing the second piece. Unless I'm totally missing something/don't have small enough gear. Because of the slabby nature of the route though, I think it is a good lead. Put on your big boy pants, trust the feet and go get this one! Jun 22, 2014
MountainBroTroll  
  5.8
Excellent climbing, one of my favorite gear routes on the Wasatch rage - bomber placements on the lower half with the right gear (TCUs, 00-1), and perfect placements with larger gear when you get the flake (BD #1, .75, #2). Don't forgot to take in the view of the city while you're at the chains. Oct 12, 2016
Alexander Brill Gutierrez
Salt Lake City, UT
Alexander Brill Gutierrez   Salt Lake City, UT
Is using the the chimney part of this climb or is that another route on it's own? Jun 21, 2018