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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,211 total, 30/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

This face is great. Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging. Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines. A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.

Protection

Ruckman has this at 5.7R but I see very little opportunity for protection on the first half of this climb, and the crease up the top half is a bit flared. It is easily top-roped off two new bolts in a big boulder on the southeast corner of the buttress. There are some older chains one tier down from the top that could be used as well. Either setup will give you quite a bit of rope drag so I'd recommend some long (30') slings and possibly some big cams or hexes as a directional to your toprope setup. Scramble around the west side of the first Watchtower wall to get up there...not too difficult.

Photos

MountainBroTroll  
  5.8
Excellent climbing, one of my favorite gear routes on the Wasatch rage - bomber placements on the lower half with the right gear (TCUs, 00-1), and perfect placements with larger gear when you get the flake (BD #1, .75, #2). Don't forgot to take in the view of the city while you're at the chains. Oct 12, 2016
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.7 R
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.7 R
Only thing I got on the face for pro was a blue metolius master cam (#1), pretty high up. I didn't plug anymore until reaching the obvious fissure directly above with a WC Helium yellow (#2). If you stick to the right, as the guide suggests I think R is fair, ie. with only my one piece on the face I had ground fall potential while placing the second piece. Unless I'm totally missing something/don't have small enough gear. Because of the slabby nature of the route though, I think it is a good lead. Put on your big boy pants, trust the feet and go get this one! Jun 22, 2014
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I would add that this one is a bit tougher for the shorter folk. I'm 6'0" and found that the reaches between good holds were not too bad. My wife at 5'4" found them more exhilarating. The pro I used is below:






#2 BD C3
#2 BD Camalot
#0.5 BD Camalot May 28, 2014
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I really enjoyed this. The angle of the first 15-20 is just less than vertical, so you can use really small holds that would normally make a climb pretty hard. The route demands a lot of balance and some good foot work.
Probably the most technical easy climb I've done. Jul 20, 2013
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.7
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.7
Good free solo route. The holds are definitely there. Jun 17, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
I agree. The pro is all there if you look for it. Small, small cams though for bottom face. A yellow or red C3. Fun route though! Jun 10, 2013
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 PG13
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 PG13
finally redpointed this...adequate gear that is solid but tricky. I used a red c3 and a blue metolious for micro cams on the start, then a standard rack for the rest. May 15, 2012
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.7 PG13
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.7 PG13
Pretty fun! Jun 26, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7 PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7 PG13
Agreed, great gear, although the first piece feels a bit high if you're warming up on this. You can make the route a tad bit harder by keeping the left arete and the crack on the right off. I know, contrived eliminate, but it adds some cool mantely moves on the upper section. Jun 7, 2009
There is tons of pro on this climb. If you want to and are a tiny bit creative, you can get either bomber small cams or great nuts in about every 3 feet from the bottom to the top. So yeah, if this ever sprouted a bolt, it would be a real shame! Sep 9, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Finally, got this redpoint thanks to Bobby Hanson bringing the small stuff. 2-3 micro cams, and then you are on easy street. A good spotter wouldn't be a bad idea either. A very balancey and heady lead. Jun 5, 2005
Black Alien, or creative nutting take the teeth right'outta this beauty. Protectable, but yes, you have to climb the first 10/15 feet to that gear. A great lead ! Lets hope it doesn't sprout a bolt! Giove it a shot, and you will find it to be a very rewarding lead (just have a spotter!!) May 23, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
This is a good lead. There isn't very much protection, but it's there. I recommend small aliens, maybe Blue through Yellow, plus some slightly larger cams or TCUs too. I think I even got a #1 or #2 Camalot in somewhere up higher. A great belayer is also recommended. Apr 14, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
I would agree with the protection or lack of on this route. Tough lead, I ended up top-roping it. Apr 22, 2004