Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Bill Robbins, 1983
Page Views: 15,997 total · 75/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 30, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


233 Opinions

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Description

Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.

Protection

I top-roped this route by hiking around the west end of the buttress and rapping down off a big tree. It was a bit of a hassle, but there's a nice ledge and anchors at the top of the route once you get there. For trad, there are many horizontal seams that would probably take small nuts or cams, and at least one old piton underneath the large roof.
Eric Jacobsen
  5.10a
Eric Jacobsen  
  5.10a
You can also scramble to the top of this fairly easily from the top of the western buttress of the Watchtower. Sep 26, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Those are fantastic pictures Louis/James. Well done. Jul 23, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
A great route that protects well. We used a #2 Camalot, and then a large nut just before the easy section. Then we used a small alien, and the pin, and a #1 Camalot just over the 1st roof, and to keep the exit safe a .75 Camalot. Very awkward climb, but the moves are there and it is well worth the rush to lead this classic. Jun 5, 2005
Todd Gardner
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Todd Gardner   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Great route. One of my favorites. Jun 2, 2006
Joseph Kolnik
Holladay, UT
  5.10a
Joseph Kolnik   Holladay, UT
  5.10a
Very good climb, almost a classic in my book. I lead this thing strait up and later realized the guide book shows the route going to the right a bit for the first roof section. Anyway, leading this thing strait up was taxing and a bit harder than the right variation IMO. Jul 6, 2008
Super good lead. Let's not encourage any more top roping than this climb already gets. The protection is great. Oct 31, 2008
Should be an obligatory Utah Trad tick. Outstanding!!! Dec 26, 2008
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
I fully agree with Crisco! A classic must do! Don't let it intimidate you... Dec 29, 2008
Historical pin is no more Oct 1, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
WHAT?????
What happened? Oct 1, 2010
Historic status aside...there is no longer a pin on this route. So make sure the gear is bomber. Boissal, I've no idea what caused its demise but I hope it's not related to the flesh and blood draped all over the route. Oct 1, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Flesh and blood uh? Might need to go check it out.
You can equalize a couple of .4s or better a .4 and a yellow mastercam in there. Long runners better. I've always backed up that piece anyway and there's a textbook #1 placement just above...

Now if only the TR anchors could fall off we'd be set! Oct 1, 2010
Someone also stole the KB piton that I put in my new route Karmic Trace on the Cathedral. So if someone is trying to put together a rack of pins for their first nail up big wall, instead of stealing them off my route and others, why don't you just PM me and I'll give you whatever pins you need. Nov 1, 2010
Matt Park  
 
Super fun route, the top of the "upside-down staircase" can be hard for shorter people, if you don't lay back on the rail to the left then move your feet up and get into the first little crack. but all in all its an amazing climb! Jul 26, 2011
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
Murphski Adams   SLC, UT
Wow, I attempted this route about a year ago and blew a cam out of a horizontal above the historical pin. Coming down head first (the pull of the cam must have brought me into the wall, flipping me upside down when my feet hit) I can confidently say that pin saved my life. So did someone work the pin out on purpose, or did it come out from a fall? Aug 7, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Yeah textbook placements, no pin needed on this amazing route. Yellow and orange metolius under the roof w single runners, both bomber, and as for the #1 in the horizontal, like Boissal says, it doesn't get any more textbook than that - try working it in towards the left for a tighter fit Sep 3, 2011
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
This route is like a little slice of the Gunks dropped in the Wasatch. Sep 13, 2012
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10a
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10a
Such a unique route that is a must do in the Wasatch Front! Slick slab with great hand holds. Just plug in a red #1 C4 under the 2nd roof and go for it! Apr 9, 2013
Donovan Allen
Soft Lake City
  5.10a
Donovan Allen   Soft Lake City
  5.10a
Been back in slc about one week. Sent this on sharp end the other day. Sick of seeing people rate this classic on TR. Just lead it! Jun 15, 2015
WillK  
wish i could go back and time and try this before it got greasy/polished.

also, my #1 almost came out of the horizontal before 2nd roof as well. It is a textbook placement, but the crack isn't perfectly flat and parallel either. One should still take some time to examine the crack and placement. Aug 23, 2017
Adam Knutson  
 
The comments on this route about gear pulling out, greasy holds, people falling, TR polishing it, I was thinking this was going to be so sketchy. It was not. Gear placements are solid, holds are bomber. This route is a classic, and every section was fun. Aug 4, 2018