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Extreme Unction
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 353
votes
Routes in Watchtower Main
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Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Benediction T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dark Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go For The Roses TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Light T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jenga T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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John Doe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Outer Darkness T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spirit Prison T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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St. Theresa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.61376, -111.77927 |
| FA: | Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Bill Robbins, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 21,836 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Jacobsen on May 30, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.
Protection
There are many horizontal seams that will take small nuts or cams, and one small crack underneath the large roof.
Recently, several climbers have taken serious ground falls as a result of their gear pulling. There is adequate protection on this route that can be utilized, but may not be as straightforward as one may think. Doubling up on gear at the first roof is a common practice as is placing gear above the roof, coming back down for a rest before attempting the crux moves.
Edit: Highly recommend placing 3 pieces of gear at the roof, as most of the accidents have involved people placing 2 pieces they insist are bomber—and they somehow blow.
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