Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Scott Unice, 1990s
Page Views: 1,683 total · 12/month
Shared By: Boissal . on May 27, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Listed by the Ruckmans & the new granite guide as John Doe 2 and described as "2 bolts that don't seem to have a home", this mixed route has some fun moves and a powerful crux section.

Scramble/climb up the easy blocky section between the starts of Total X and Fortress to a ledge below the large alcove. Lieback your way into the alcove before clipping a bolt and committing to the powerful crux, a long balancy reach to a decent edge. A few easier moves bring you to the second bolt and another cruxy section of crystal pinching.

Edit: name & FA info finally clarified!

Location

Located on the Watchtower in between Total X and Fortress, easily identified by a big alcove about 1/3 of the way up the route.

Protection

2 bolts that look a bit battered. A #2 and maybe #3 for the main (hollow) undercling, some micros or small nuts for the upper flake.
Ancient rusty bolts/chains on top, better to rap off.

Photos