Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mark Bennett, 1983
Page Views: 3,035 total · 16/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 2, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

Fingers to hands to crimps to tight hands. Small for the most part.

Protection

Easy pro all the way up good nuts and cams. One quickdraw for the piton and save a #1 camalot for above the crux. This route seems easier compared to the other 11's in the canyon.

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tenesmus  
 
Louis is right and that's why its often a good "first .11 trad lead". Lotta climbing packed into that thing. Jun 6, 2006
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
 
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
 
Is the bolt at the top of the pitch on route or is that for something different? Thats the way I have been doing it. Ferg classic IMO

For something different start in the hand crack on fortress then when close to the pin go right to fire and brimstone and finish on another sweet hand crack. It adds more hand jams with a lot of 5.10 climbing. Jun 3, 2010
grk10vq    
that bolt is part of john doe 2. it seems a bit out of the way, but the whole upper section is a squeeze, its hard not to bang your elbows on another route.

i've emailed all your friends informing them your prior sends were invalid. Jul 7, 2010
your mom
Reno, NV
your mom   Reno, NV
Fun Variation.

Jul 13, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great route as are several others here, most of which finish on an anchor that could see some updating Jul 30, 2013