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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Hank Armantrout, Mark Smith, 1983
Page Views: 1,905 total, 10/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 9, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

The start begins ten feet to the right of the Fortress and Hellfore Var. start up a left slanting dihedral to the intersection of Hellfire, cross over to a left slanting hand crack between Fortress and Hellfire(Crux). Finish same as Fortress. Some start up Hellfire and finish in the left slanting crack.

Protection

Stoppers and hand sized cams. Tops to the chains of Fortress.

Photos

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The new Granite guide guide does not show this route and Hellfire crossing which I believe they do and I'm pretty sure the Ruckman guide shows. But the Hellfire start to the F & B finish seems to be the way its commonly climbed. Aug 24, 2017
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
I find that starting on the finger crack just right of fortress (hellfire I guess?) is a better, more consistent climb. Aug 18, 2014
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Really fun line with good jams most of the way. I used a 3 on the finish widening crack, you could use a 4 and protect really well for the final moves. Not necessarily more difficult than unction, just as pumpy but using jams. Jun 12, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
The start is fairly easy with great stances for gear. Getting into the hand crack is cruxy and then you just have to fight the widening crack with bad feet. I didn't place anything bigger than .75 but I ran it out on top, too tired to place gear. Really pumpy, definitely harder than Unction.
Edit: bring a #2. Jun 2, 2008
I have always found this to be VERY physical for the grade. Just my opinion...seems WAY harder than extreme unction. Anyone else agree? Sep 15, 2005
does anyone else find this a grunt for 10a? This wooped up on mepretty good. TAKE! great line! Jun 4, 2005