Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Hank Armantrout, Mark Smith, 1983
Page Views: 2,125 total · 11/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 9, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

The start begins ten feet to the right of the Fortress and Hellfore Var. start up a left slanting dihedral to the intersection of Hellfire, cross over to a left slanting hand crack between Fortress and Hellfire(Crux). Finish same as Fortress. Some start up Hellfire and finish in the left slanting crack.

Protection

Stoppers and hand sized cams. Tops to the chains of Fortress.

Photos

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does anyone else find this a grunt for 10a? This wooped up on mepretty good. TAKE! great line! Jun 4, 2005
I have always found this to be VERY physical for the grade. Just my opinion...seems WAY harder than extreme unction. Anyone else agree? Sep 15, 2005
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
The start is fairly easy with great stances for gear. Getting into the hand crack is cruxy and then you just have to fight the widening crack with bad feet. I didn't place anything bigger than .75 but I ran it out on top, too tired to place gear. Really pumpy, definitely harder than Unction.
Edit: bring a #2. Jun 2, 2008
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Really fun line with good jams most of the way. I used a 3 on the finish widening crack, you could use a 4 and protect really well for the final moves. Not necessarily more difficult than unction, just as pumpy but using jams. Jun 12, 2014
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
I find that starting on the finger crack just right of fortress (hellfire I guess?) is a better, more consistent climb. Aug 18, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The new Granite guide guide does not show this route and Hellfire crossing which I believe they do and I'm pretty sure the Ruckman guide shows. But the Hellfire start to the F & B finish seems to be the way its commonly climbed. Aug 24, 2017