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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Bob Rotert and Merrill Bitter, 1982
Page Views: 886 total, 9/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

An insecure and robust off-fingers/off-hands climb that follows a shallow, wavering crack. The crux of this route may be getting off the ground or better yet, remembering what you did once you have.

Desperately grovel the start for 7 feet to more sane terrain. Battle some tomfoolery and get past the bulge. Follow the obvious line around the corner to finish and end at a tree anchor.

A lot harder than its looks, this is a short, quick route thats over almost as fast as it begins. Hang in there !!

Location

Beef Jerky sits in the midle of the Watchtower wall. Its directly left of Garden of Eden and to the right of Hungry for Heaven

Protection

A very light rack and some slings; items to fashion an anchor.
All of the above or none of the above.

Photos

Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
One tough piece of meat... yet I find myself gnawing on it occasionally. Judging by the amount chalk often found only in the first 10 feet it must get tackled often... and rarely (?) succumbs. Jul 15, 2009
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
My thoughts during the Beef of it...Please don't pop, please don't pop! Very exciting climbing. It would be a fergy classic if the Jerky didn't end so quickly. Definitely worth doing though. And if you're not into trad, bring a pad (mondo size). I placed a #2 for the beef and a couple of small manky nuts for the upper section. Jul 15, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
This one requires a good spotter to keep you off the shark tooth at the base. The first piece is a bit high and the climbing isn't exactly casual up to that point so if your belayer is from the grigri-loving hands-in-pockets brobrah school, haul a pad or move along.

Sweat, grunt, kick stuff, curse, pull on other stuff and you might make it. 5.hard at the bottom, thin at the top, although I swear I spotted a hidden #1 camalot placement.

Edit to add: Damn, solo?? The thought scares me about as much as Stone they rejected. Lance = so damn strong! Jul 15, 2009