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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bobby Rotert 1982
Page Views: 989 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Final Prayer Variation starts on the North Facing wall at the west end of the Watchtower. It comes right out of the stream bed. It starts on the left end of this wall, clips a new bolt and then angles further left to a pin. From here it angles back right to a nice hand ledge and up and over to some chains a bit further right. Aside from the rambling nature, it is a very good route with some fun moves. A reachy crux, after the pin. The book calls this a 5.10a, maybe I am getting older and weaker or maybe it's just Ferguson, but I felt this was harder than that.

Protection

1 bolt and a pin. A really small cam can back up the pin, and above that there is a large enough horizontal crack for a #1 Camalot, and one more smaller cam or medium nut would help. Long runners are neccesary as well. Chains at the top for a rappel.

Photos

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
" Not to encourage TR but...."

Well sir you are encouraging it here... Sep 4, 2013
Garrett C
SL,UT
Garrett C   SL,UT
A really fun route. Not to encourage TR but you can set one up by hiking around to the right of the climb. I had to use some fun stemming around the top to get past the bulge. Sep 2, 2013
Alec LaLonde
  5.10c PG13
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10c PG13
The pin is gone. Not sure where it was but you can slot a grey camalot up and left of the first bolt. This is pretty much your pro for the crux, which is quite a bit higher. Sep 5, 2012
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Fun Fun Fun! Do this and then the one to the left of it Benediction . Jul 15, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
A yellow mastercam goes in between the first bolt and the piton. The piton itself seems bomber but can be backed up with a blue mastercam for piece of mind.
EDIT: Pin is gone. Probably R now, there's some room between the gear.

To whoever is pulling pins in Fergy: die. I'll pound your dick in a crack if I ever find you. Jun 7, 2009