Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tony Calderone and Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 1,826 total · 10/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Aug 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack. I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face. Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second. This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).

Protection

3 bolts to a double chain anchor. hard route but good bolt placements

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.11a
Beta on the beginning: Don't start on the arete. Start near the crack and traverse over on the hand ledges. This info came courtesy of the FA party. I spent 2 years unable to do this climb because the book led me to believe that I had to start on the arete. Otherwise the climb stays right on the arete. Very sequential crux, with, (As EJ said) integral footwork. Aug 16, 2004
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
Aren't the bolts on this route kind of close to a crack? One can do the 5.6 crack and clip the bolts on the arete. May 21, 2007
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
 
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
 
I don't think the bolts are close enough to the 5.6 crack to be clippable. The middle section between the 1st and 2nd bolts is for sure the crux for most people. The moves are a little bit awkward. The holds are crimpy, but overall they are pretty bomber. Throw in some smears here and there and your golden. Jun 21, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
Contrived. Jun 30, 2008
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Fully contrived. Aug 24, 2008
Eli Peterson
Orem
  5.10d
Eli Peterson   Orem
  5.10d
If you stay on the arete (besides start) it is not contrived. Read Nathan Fishers comment for the beta. Did think it was a bit more difficult than a 10c however that may have been because my shoe blew out and I was climbng with an exposed big toe.... Jul 25, 2015
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
It is contrived... as are at least a dozen other routes in this canyon.

There is no way you are clipping bolt 1 or 2 from holy grail. Bolt 3 can be clipped while on holy grail. That 3/8" buttonhead bolt was added later by someone else. Sep 19, 2016