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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tony Calderone and Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 1,755 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Aug 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack. I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face. Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second. This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).

Protection

3 bolts to a double chain anchor. hard route but good bolt placements
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
It is contrived... as are at least a dozen other routes in this canyon.

There is no way you are clipping bolt 1 or 2 from holy grail. Bolt 3 can be clipped while on holy grail. That 3/8" buttonhead bolt was added later by someone else. Sep 19, 2016
Eli Peterson
Orem
  5.10d
Eli Peterson   Orem
  5.10d
If you stay on the arete (besides start) it is not contrived. Read Nathan Fishers comment for the beta. Did think it was a bit more difficult than a 10c however that may have been because my shoe blew out and I was climbng with an exposed big toe.... Jul 25, 2015
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Fully contrived. Aug 24, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
Contrived. Jun 30, 2008
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
 
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
 
I don't think the bolts are close enough to the 5.6 crack to be clippable. The middle section between the 1st and 2nd bolts is for sure the crux for most people. The moves are a little bit awkward. The holds are crimpy, but overall they are pretty bomber. Throw in some smears here and there and your golden. Jun 21, 2008
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
Aren't the bolts on this route kind of close to a crack? One can do the 5.6 crack and clip the bolts on the arete. May 21, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.11a
Beta on the beginning: Don't start on the arete. Start near the crack and traverse over on the hand ledges. This info came courtesy of the FA party. I spent 2 years unable to do this climb because the book led me to believe that I had to start on the arete. Otherwise the climb stays right on the arete. Very sequential crux, with, (As EJ said) integral footwork. Aug 16, 2004