Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Les Ellison, Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 2,257 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 18, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This is the lowest of all the Watchtower routes. It climbs a right facing, right leaning crack, and finishes with an off-width almost squeeze chimney. This climb protects well, but messes with your balance all the way up. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Bring medium gear for the main crack, and a large piece. I used a hex, for the exit crack.

Photos

Steve Allison
  5.8
Steve Allison  
  5.8
Shot but tough. Deceptively Dangerous Beginning. We top roped Double Cross by tying into the base of the tree at the top. (Walk up is immediately to the right up trail.)Webbing slung down into the exit crack where the rope began. The bulge at the beginning is fun to get over but dangereous unless you can get protection above it. But by the time you do that you're over it. Easy to slip backward off bulge and pancake on deck. It looks easier than it is. The bottom 1/3 of the crack is rounded out. The more you grab it the more you slip out. Opposed right leg stretched out finally got me over the bulge. Sep 28, 2004
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Definitely a solid climb- solid for its grade, solid gear, and mostly solid holds- save some solid fuel for the exit- it can be a humid pump. Jun 1, 2008
jason Wisniewski95
Salt Lake City
jason Wisniewski95   Salt Lake City
I Lead this route the other day and i used smaller nuts at the bottom and a #2 before the off width/chimney . The bottom bulge is tricky and slick and the protection through the middle section is tough to find. But it's a solid 5.8 really fun, looks a lot easier than it is. Oct 5, 2014
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
Stellar climb. Don't let the "potentially dangerous beginning" scare you off. Any climb is potentially dangerous.
It's got a long running flared seem that accepts some gear and spits other out. Get into a stance that won't pump out your calves and place good gear. That's the crux IMO.
I loved every second of this climb. Jun 10, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
While this is a tad awkward, its a full value 5.8 gear lead, and this is Fergy so ya... I always wrote it off as it looked so easy, but It got me thinking more than I would expect. This reminds me of a shorter and less sustained Presiding Nymph. certainly worth a couple stars and probably the easiest TR up there. Aug 23, 2016
MountainBroTroll  
  5.9+
Very interesting. Tricky start with slick holds, protection is there (nuts help) but you probably wouldn't want to fall in the first 10 to 15 feet or so - if you do deck it's gonna hurt and you'll roll off the belay ledge. Thought that the exit was the crux. Nov 17, 2016