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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Les Ellison, 1982
Page Views: 875 total · 8/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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What do I do?

Climb straight up to a pin about 15' up (shared with Final Prayer Variation) using good horizontal crimps. A couple of small pieces can protect the initial runout.
Thread the piton and tackle the bulgy upper section. The moves are really cool, long reaches from crimps and sidepulls. Clip the second piton located below a mini roof, shake out for a bit and pull the roof. A weird mantle puts you on the upper slab, walk to the anchors.

The guidebook seems to show the route going left around the roof after the 2nd piton for the 10d crux. This puts you on a steep slabby face with horizontal cracks for a few extra moves. Unfortunately, the Famous Ferguson Leaning Tree (TM) has gotten in the way and is now resting on top of this section. Good luck fighting it off if you try to stick to the line...

Where do I go?

This route goes straight up the rounded arete between Final Prayer Variation and Inner Light. Start about 6' to the left of a newish bolt (which replaced the 1st pin of Final Prayer Variation), straight below a piton (shared with Final Prayer Variation)

How do I make it safe?

2 ancient but solid pins, I recently watched someone whip on the first one from quite a ways up. EDIT: the Fucking Ferguson Pin Goblin removed both pins. What used to be back up gear is now all you get. I'd go with R/X now...
Clipping the 1st piton puts some nasty torque on the carabiner, I thread a skinny sling through the eye instead (bit strenuous). No problems with the 2nd one.
Small gear before the 1st piton, an orange mastercam would work great in a good undercling (yellow C3 is too small, C4s are too wide)
Both pitons can be backed up, might be smart since there's no gear between them or above.

Chain anchors a ways up the low angle slab at the top. Lower on the Inner Light side if you want your rope to stay dry when you pull it.


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Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
This is one of my favorite new climbs in Fergy. Not sure why I've overlooked it for so long.. I believe the original finish has a tree in the way, but going straight-up is still exciting. Just do it! I placed a #.4 to protect the mantle over the top. Jul 15, 2009