Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Les Ellison, 1982
Page Views: 949 total · 8/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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What do I do?

Climb straight up to a pin about 15' up (shared with Final Prayer Variation) using good horizontal crimps. A couple of small pieces can protect the initial runout.
Thread the piton and tackle the bulgy upper section. The moves are really cool, long reaches from crimps and sidepulls. Clip the second piton located below a mini roof, shake out for a bit and pull the roof. A weird mantle puts you on the upper slab, walk to the anchors.

The guidebook seems to show the route going left around the roof after the 2nd piton for the 10d crux. This puts you on a steep slabby face with horizontal cracks for a few extra moves. Unfortunately, the Famous Ferguson Leaning Tree (TM) has gotten in the way and is now resting on top of this section. Good luck fighting it off if you try to stick to the line...

Where do I go?

This route goes straight up the rounded arete between Final Prayer Variation and Inner Light. Start about 6' to the left of a newish bolt (which replaced the 1st pin of Final Prayer Variation), straight below a piton (shared with Final Prayer Variation)

How do I make it safe?

2 ancient but solid pins, I recently watched someone whip on the first one from quite a ways up. EDIT: the Fucking Ferguson Pin Goblin removed both pins. What used to be back up gear is now all you get. I'd go with R/X now... EDIT#2: let's go with PG13/R for those with mad gear knowledge (TR based). 
Clipping the 1st piton puts some nasty torque on the carabiner, I thread a skinny sling through the eye instead (bit strenuous). No problems with the 2nd one.
Small gear before the 1st piton, an orange mastercam would work great in a good undercling (yellow C3 is too small, C4s are too wide)
Both pitons can be backed up, might be smart since there's no gear between them or above.

Chain anchors a ways up the low angle slab at the top. Lower on the Inner Light side if you want your rope to stay dry when you pull it.


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Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
This is one of my favorite new climbs in Fergy. Not sure why I've overlooked it for so long.. I believe the original finish has a tree in the way, but going straight-up is still exciting. Just do it! I placed a #.4 to protect the mantle over the top. Jul 15, 2009
Andrew Brodhead
Andrew Brodhead   SLC
I strongly disagree with the R/X rateing given in the discription. You are never more then 1-2 feet above your gear when placing another piece. If apprehensive about the onsite, spend some time and scout the gear. With some basic knowledge, it would be a stretch to even call this PG13. Great route and sadly overlooked. Apr 25, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b/c PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b/c PG13
Onsight rating vs headpoint rating right...
If you show up at the base expecting to clip 2 pins as described in the book and find nothing but scars and shallow pods you're in for a rough ride, especially on a short bouldery route with few touchy placement. That warrants a seriousness upgrade in my book. If you TR the line and dial in the gear it's a different story, although in my book all gear routes in Fergy are at least PG13 based on their diminutive length and non straightforward placements. Except Inner Light which has absolutely trucker gear at 5.7 and you somehow think is PG. Go figure... I'll remove the X so you only have to weakly disagree. Apr 25, 2018