Description

One of the first and largest buttresses you'll reach when hiking up Ferguson Canyon, The Watchtower's main area holds the largest concentration and largest variety of classics. You haven't experienced Ferguson until you've climbed at The Watchtower.

Encompassing almost all styles of climbing, the main Watchtower routes will not disappoint. Holding a little bit of everything, including sport lines, trad lines, and mixed lines, this token buttress keep you coming back for more.

The Main Watchtower routes extend from the entrance of the canyon starting with Double Cross and follow the trail along the base of the buttress ending in The Fortress area with Total X.

Location

Hike up the main trail from the parking lot until you cross the Twin Peaks Wilderness Boundry. The Watchtower is the first and largest pile of rock you'll meet on the right, south side.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Watchtower Main Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Watchtower Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 78
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 113
Inner Light
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Hellfire Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 233
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Fire and Brimstone
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 75
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 14
Final Prayer Variation
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 12
Benediction
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Invocation
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 64
Fortress
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
The Dirge
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 33
Reach the Beach
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Dark Rose
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
Fishlips
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Confessional
 78
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light
 113
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Hellfire Variation
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Extreme Unction
 233
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fire and Brimstone
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Total X
 75
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Final Prayer Variation
 14
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Benediction
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Invocation
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Fortress
 64
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Dirge
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Reach the Beach
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Dark Rose
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Fishlips
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Watchtower Main »

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