GPS: 40.61349, -111.77922
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Shared By: GRK on Dec 19, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

One of the first and largest buttresses you'll reach when hiking up Ferguson Canyon, The Watchtower's main area holds the largest concentration and largest variety of classics. You haven't experienced Ferguson until you've climbed at The Watchtower.

Encompassing almost all styles of climbing, the main Watchtower routes will not disappoint. Holding a little bit of everything, including sport lines, trad lines, and mixed lines, this token buttress keep you coming back for more.

The Main Watchtower routes extend from the entrance of the canyon starting with Double Cross and follow the trail along the base of the buttress ending in The Fortress area with Total X.

Location

Hike up the main trail from the parking lot until you cross the Twin Peaks Wilderness Boundry. The Watchtower is the first and largest pile of rock you'll meet on the right, south side.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: Watchtower Main Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Watchtower Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 48
Outer Darkness
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 107
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 168
Inner Light
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
Jenga
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Hellfire Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 309
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Fire and Brimstone
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 18
Benediction
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Fortress
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
The Dirge
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 43
Reach the Beach
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Dark Rose
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Fishlips
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Crown of Thorns
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Outer Darkness
 48
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
The Confessional
 107
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light
 168
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Jenga
 54
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Hellfire Variation
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Extreme Unction
 309
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fire and Brimstone
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Total X
 100
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Benediction
 18
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Fortress
 94
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Dirge
 36
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Reach the Beach
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Dark Rose
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Fishlips
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Crown of Thorns
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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