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Areas in The Watchtower

Watchtower Cove 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Watchtower Main 19 / 8 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Watchtower Proper 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Watchtower Tiers 3 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Elevation: 5,571 ft
GPS: 40.613, -111.779 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 51,153 total, 286/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Watchtower is the most popular crag in Ferguson and is the first one you come to. Most routes are trad with a few good sport routes. The wall is steep with horizontal seams. Most routes have good anchors for a single-rope descent, and a few have a steep walk-off to the west. I've set up Extreme Unction as a top-rope by rapping down from the top of Watchtower Proper which sits above Watchtower, but it's a big hassle.

The wall is rather long and quite large. It has been broken up into four sections, The Main Wall, The Watchtower Proper, The Tiers, and The Cove in an attempt to help navigate.

Getting There

This is the first crag you will come to after hiking 15-20 minutes up the canyon from the trailhead on Timberline Drive. The Watchtower wall comes right down into the stream so you may have to hop some rocks to keep your feet dry when the stream is high. The steep gully on the right (west) end that you come to first is the walk-off for some of the first routes. The routes are numbered west to east along the wall.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Watchtower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Light
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Imperial
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire and Brimstone
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncensored Society
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Conflict
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fortress
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dehumanized
Trad, Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drunk Punk Oi
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steel Reserve
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Total Ramon
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fishlips
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Confessional Watchtower Main 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light Watchtower Main 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Hellfire Variation Watchtower Main 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Imperial Watchtower Tiers 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Extreme Unction Watchtower Main 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fire and Brimstone Watchtower Main 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Total X Watchtower Main 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Uncensored Society Watchtower Tiers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Conflict Watchtower Tiers 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Fortress Watchtower Main 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Dehumanized Watchtower Tiers 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Drunk Punk Oi Watchtower Tiers 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Steel Reserve Watchtower Tiers 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Total Ramon Watchtower Tiers 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport
Fishlips Watchtower Main 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
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