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Elevation: 5,571 ft
GPS: 40.61344, -111.7792
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 134,388 total · 526/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

The Watchtower is the most popular crag in Ferguson and is the first one you come to. Most routes are trad with a few good sport routes. The wall is steep with horizontal seams. Most routes have good anchors for a single-rope descent, and a few have a steep walk-off to the west. I've set up Extreme Unction as a top-rope by rapping down from the top of Watchtower Proper which sits above Watchtower, but it's a big hassle.

The wall is rather long and quite large. It has been broken up into four sections, The Main Wall, The Watchtower Proper, The Tiers, and The Cove in an attempt to help navigate.

Getting There Suggest change

This is the first crag you will come to after hiking 15-20 minutes up the canyon from the trailhead on Timberline Drive. The Watchtower wall comes right down into the stream so you may have to hop some rocks to keep your feet dry when the stream is high. The steep gully on the right (west) end that you come to first is the walk-off for some of the first routes. The routes are numbered west to east along the wall.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Watchtower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 116
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 179
Inner Light
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Hellfire Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 208
Imperial
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 327
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 89
Fire and Brimstone
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 198
Uncensored Society
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 141
Conflict
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Fortress
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 64
Drunk Punk Oi
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Steel Reserve
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 57
Fishlips
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Condor
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Crown of Thorns
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Confessional Watchtower Main
 116
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light Watchtower Main
 179
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Hellfire Variation Watchtower Main
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Imperial Watchtower Tiers
 208
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Extreme Unction Watchtower Main
 327
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fire and Brimstone Watchtower Main
 89
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Total X Watchtower Main
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Uncensored Society Watchtower Tiers
 198
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Conflict Watchtower Tiers
 141
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Fortress Watchtower Main
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Drunk Punk Oi Watchtower Tiers
 64
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Steel Reserve Watchtower Tiers
 76
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Fishlips Watchtower Main
 57
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Condor Watchtower Tiers
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crown of Thorns Watchtower Main
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Watchtower »

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