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Routes in Watchtower Tiers

Condor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conflict S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dehumanized T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drunk Punk Oi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grommet S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Imperial S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steel Reserve T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Ramon T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Uncensored Society S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Aug. '08
Page Views: 3,448 total, 30/month
Shared By: drewford on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Really a variation to Uncensored Society. Climb to the first bolt on that route and then go straight right to the Condor crux. Surmounting that move puts the leader in a small right-facing corner. Follow this feature for four more bolts before rejoining Uncensored Society.

NOTE: the route name - depending on your wingspan, the grade could vary a great deal. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.

Location

Right of Uncensored Society and left of Drunk Punk Oi.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.12
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.12
Thanks for the kudos, wasatch boy, but the above deserves clarification. I didn't fire the same crux described here (though I'd like to). Rather, I found an alternate sequence just right of it: Same hands to start, but my left foot moved to a micro-edge just slightly better than a rand smear; right foot to a small triangular knob facing the wrong way; then I dead-pointed for a neglected crimp that's kind of fickle about how you latch it before rejoining the right-facing corner described above. The regular crux is definitely hard if you're short, so I had to problem solve. What I did felt 12- to me.

Great route with a great name. Nov 12, 2014
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Watched 5'4" Danie White fire this crux recently. She had to use non-existent foot smears and micro-crimps to supplement the hands. So it can be done (but might bump the personal grade a bit higher than 12-). Nice send Danie! Nov 11, 2014
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
I agree that it is not sustained at all, I thought the climbing above the crux was in the 10 range, harder than uncensored society to the left. That being said, depending on your height the crux can be quite difficult. I think calling it mid or soft 11 is definitely sandbagging it. I am not great at rating things, but if I compare it to other boulder problems I have done, I would say it is harder than standard overhang V3 and is more like smiley right V4 if you wanna compare it to LCC bouldering. Regardless it is super fun! Jul 22, 2013
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12-
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12-
To each his own, but in MHO this climb is 5.12-, though it is not sustained what so ever. The single hard move on this climb was harder for me than anything on Fuego, which is just up canyon. I am 5'8" with no ape index and it was a heroic reach for me. May 13, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Maybe this needs to be cross-posted on 8a.nu so every beater out there looking to tick their first 12a can maximize their chances on a real gimme line? There's a real sandbagged 11d down the hill that you should all get on. Make sure to post outraged comments about the real difficulty... Aug 13, 2012
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
  5.11b/c
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
  5.11b/c
I did several variations of this today. Coming in from 'uncensured society' is by far the easiest. Coming in from 'dehumanized' is a little harder. But the direct start is definitely the business (really hard, way harder than the supposed crux). The crux that everyone is referring to is not v4, it's maybe v3, but probably v2. Go boulder in LCC and tell me that moves feels v4. I would say this line is probably 5.11b(unless you do the direct start, then it would probably be in the hard 5.12 range). But the line indicated on the photo is significantly easier than Drunk Punk Oi. Aug 12, 2012
Reedrombo
Home is where you park it
Reedrombo   Home is where you park it
If you have the opportunity to stick clip it, going straight up using the shitty sloping side pill and lunging for the right crimp then moving up throughout the actual crux makes it a significantly better route, the move below the first bolt is harder than the actual crux, but I'd still call it a 12. Jun 17, 2012
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Tried this one out today and it's definitely soft for 12a but still an amazing route. Even above the crux the climbing stays fun with a sweet move to the chains. Jun 15, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Fun route. Easy 12a tick. Proceed as follows: lunge to crappy hold, bump to good hold, jugfest to top. Lurpy long fellows will find it easier. Sep 19, 2011
grego
SLC, Utah
  5.12
grego   SLC, Utah
  5.12
I would definitely recommend going right to dehumanized. Otherwise it just has one hard problem, followed by easy 5.10 climbing. If you link it with dehumanized it is much more consistent. Jul 21, 2011
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
I'd have to agree that starting slightly right of the first bolt then finishing on the crack on Dehumanized seems more straight forward and keeps the climber more engaged. You can also go straight up under the first bolt which adds a few moves to the crux. The crux is probably V4 like Boissal said and indeed the route is not sustained at that grade. If you finish up on Dehumanized you can expect another red point crux at the top. No matter how you slice it the route is fun. Jul 2, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
The crux is V3 hence the rating. Sustained it is not. May 21, 2010
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
This route is not 5.12. It has one move of 5.11+ in it and the rest is easy May 20, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Not having this reference, we started this route down low and right of the first bolt. This seemed like the natural start. It uses some holds on Dehumanizing but stays left, so the moves are different--5.11-ish. We also finished up the crack, which seemed a bit more "straight up". The crux is still the crux, but this makes the route a bit more interesting. Sep 16, 2008