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Routes in Watchtower Tiers

Condor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conflict S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dehumanized T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drunk Punk Oi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grommet S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Imperial S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steel Reserve T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Ramon T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Uncensored Society S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Drew Bedford Sept. '08
Page Views: 5,236 total, 46/month
Shared By: drewford on Sep 10, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

La cerveza de Costa Rica. Fun climbing mixes face and flake holds. Stay more left to make it a bit harder, or go more right to ease off. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.

Location

Right/downhill of Scratchin' for the Loomer

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

The anchor has two bolts however, one is missing a hanger so it's really a bolt and a tree. You need longer slings to sling the tree and equalize with the bolt which is about 3.5' lower than the tree.

Photos

Climbs better then it looks, worth doing.. Aug 19, 2015
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Fun route, definitely worth doing. As others have said, the more you veer left the harder the moves become. Solid granite, good smearing fiction available. The anchor needs to be re-worked; there were two bolts, one missing a hanger and was slung with some sun-weathered nylon webbing which should be replaced with an actual hanger. Jul 10, 2012
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
If you follow the bolt line and stay slightly left its a much funner route than going right, which is dirty as hell. Harder though with some great sidepulls...maybe 10a or 10b. Anchor as of now is a bolt with a ring and a sling on the hangerless bolt. Jul 29, 2011
Unfortunately, along with numerous fixed pitons being stolen in the canyon, the cool slung stopper on the bolt for half of the anchor has been stolen as well. We climbed this route today and discovered this. Someone is building up some bad karma. Nov 7, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Xs appeared on top of the route on a bunch of large blocks that looked super solid when I first did the route but now ring alarmingly hollow when you hit them. Seems like the endless stream of people TRing the line is taking its toll (it's the new Unction!!).
The base has been leveled nicely and a bunch of trees dragged over to make a platform but the top is going to come down pretty soon. Maybe a project for the SLCA crag day along with some Woogie action? Aug 10, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
I did do it staying left. Harder for sure. But those big holds out right just suck you over, so I graded it that way because I think that'll see the most ascent. Jun 26, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Fun with some long reaches to good holds. Staying left in the cracks would be considerably harder.
I liked the anchor. May 20, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Well Bri, technically that's not accurate:
mountainproject.com/v/utah/… Sep 12, 2008
bsmoot  
Drew:

You rarely if ever, put up FA's easier than 5.11...What's happening? Sep 11, 2008
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
I waited 25 years. No takers. Call me impatient. Sep 11, 2008