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Routes in Watchtower Tiers

Condor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conflict S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dehumanized T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drunk Punk Oi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grommet S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Imperial S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steel Reserve T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Ramon T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Uncensored Society S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: G. Martinez and L.Douglas 5/28/04
Page Views: 3,178 total, 25/month
Shared By: glen kaplan on Aug 11, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

Longish, steep and juggy, open-handed climb that ends on anchors above 'Steel Reserve'

Location

just up the slope to (newly) leveled area...about 20-30 ft. uphill from 'Total Ramon' and 50-60 ft. uphill from 'Fortress' flat spot...

Protection

11 bolts + anchors

Photos

Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Finally sent this climb after it defeated me last fall. What a great climb, awesome movement through (what felt to me like) a sustained crux of about three bolts. I would describe this climb as confidence inspiring, not over bolted. Each bolt protects airy moves which vary in technique, so for someone who isn't a veteran climber I thought it was great. It also seemed to me that only one bolt was at an odd angle, and someone put a locking ring on another bolt to help prevent loading your beaner on the rock. I highly recommend this climb, as a comfortable 5.10 leader most places I go, this route pushed me to believe in my feet and friction and was an absolute blast to the end. Sep 20, 2015
notmyname
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
bring a wrench and hammer - the bolts are oriented poorly (holes face down) and could result in breaking a biner or backclipping. besides that, stellar route Jun 26, 2013
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
5.10d
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
5.10d
Really good. I feel it's a solid .10d. And the people complaining about the overbolting need to get over it. If you feel there are too many bolts, then don't clip them. In fact do it trad or even solo it. But, the close bolts make the climb way more accessible to a lot of people that would otherwise never get to experience this beautiful line. Aug 12, 2012
benjaminleaton Eaton
Sandy, UT
 
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
 
The climb is great and all, but my reason for giving it four starts is due to the height of the route. This one towers over all the others for single pitch...a true pitch compared to all the other 20 foot routes. I also like that you can lead it on trad if you so desired. Jul 2, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Fun. 10d is probably accurate, though that crack section is a bit strenuous and awkward. I try not to complain about routes being overbolted as there are so many routes elsewhere I wish had more.(LCC) Sep 19, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
great climbing, solid moves, and ridiculously overbolted. Jul 27, 2010
Alec LaLonde
  5.10c
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10c
My partner and I both thought this was a bit soft for 5.10d. There are plenty of rests all the way up. Unfortunately it's a bit overbolted. Sep 27, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Some wind gust recently uprooted/broke a large tree that was sitting by the leveled base. The whole area is sliding away and there's a large block that wants to go. Tiptoe around this place for a while, when the roots finally let go and that rock starts moving it won't stop until it reaches the stream.

Good route, long reaches to good holds and funky moves around the crack.
Bolts everywhere. Jul 1, 2009
Great gear lead for some added value. Jun 28, 2009
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Amazing moves through the first few bolts. Very good indeed! Jun 25, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
The grade depends on how you tackle it. If you directly climb the crack sections, it's a gritty task. If you wend your way around using face holds and side options, it's legit 10d. Aug 24, 2008
JimG  
Very good route. hard for 10d, I would tend to agree with 11a. Sep 16, 2007
Dave Budge
South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Dave Budge   South Slope of the Hindu Kush
5.11a Aug 14, 2007