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Routes in Watchtower Tiers

Condor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conflict S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dehumanized T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drunk Punk Oi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grommet S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Imperial S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scratchin' for the Loomer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steel Reserve T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Ramon T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Uncensored Society S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Sept. '08
Page Views: 330 total, 3/month
Shared By: drewford on Sep 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

This little shredder climbs patina and pinches past four bolts to a two bolt belay. Not that the climbing goes that way, but the left arete and gully are off route. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.

Location

Starts just left/uphill of Total Ramon.

Protection

All bolts

Photos

Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.11-
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.11-
3 bolts on the face, climb over the ledge, clip the 4th bolt, another ledge, chains - all in really good shape. I stay slightly right of the bolt line. There's a pretty cool sequence there if you stay off the arete. I felt like the feet were better the higher I got. Maybe the crux is right above the 3rd bolt but only a move or two (short crux). Good warm-up climb for the other lines to the right. Definitely extend the anchors if you plan on top roping this one! May 13, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
There are 4-bolts to a chain anchor. Jul 19, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Fun route! I found the crux to be between the 3rd & 4th bolts. There is a sharp right hand crimp and a higher left hand sloper you need to move off to gain a solid right hand sidepull. Use a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen some rope drag.

If top roping the route take note of the edge a little lower than the anchors where the rope will drag across. To help lessen this be sure to clip a directional or two to minimize the rope rubbing across this point.

Bolts and anchors are all in excellent shape! Jul 19, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
This was a fun climb I started out left on the arette then stepped right to the first bolt then climbed up through to the third bolt and traversed left to the arette doing it this way was about 5.10 and fun. Aug 15, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
You could totally sling a shrub instead of clipping that 4th bolt!! Jun 29, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Well for historical clarity, "Steel Reserve" is actually pitch 2 of Total Ramon. So that would be the true start. Not that you can't start wherever you want. I did notice that at some point there was some rock fall at the start of the upper pitch, so coming in from Total Ramon may now be less appealing. Sep 17, 2008
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
It's also the approach to Steel Reserve. Sep 16, 2008