Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,261 total · 29/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 30, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

Climb the big chimney just to the left of Extreme Unction. Walk around the first big wall of the Watchtower back into the corner. You can stay out on the face or wedge yourself way into the chimney.

Protection

I top-roped this route from the top of Extreme Unction. It's a great chimney with lots of cracks and seams for trad pro as well.
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.6
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.6
Not a bad chimney. I went behind the chockstone. Oh, and it protects very well. Aug 15, 2004
This is a great first chimney climb. Its easy and pretty fun if you haven't every done a chimney before. You can definitely TR of the extreme unction anchors, but expect a lot of rope drag. Also lowering some one on belay back behind the chock stone at the start is interesting, but not to bad. Sep 16, 2007
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
This is a great chimney climb with great protection and awesome views from above. Very Awkward start. Protect it as best you can before you start climbing. Apr 5, 2011
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.6
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.6
I had a blast on this chimney. And that's coming from a a non-chimney lover. Give it a go! It's pretty easy. Jun 10, 2013
Great intro back to into rock climbing for myself. easy to set the top rope up. Nice Chimney to gain your confidence. Protected from the sun mid-late day. Jul 27, 2015
Chris Hfsda
  5.6
Chris Hfsda  
  5.6
I liked it, but my wife didn't. Not too many placements for nuts. Cams are required if you want often pro. The bolts are at the top of fishlips; not an ideal placement if trying to do confessional. There are remnants of an old sling around the top boulder. I assume this was for a better repeat of confessional for tr. I didnt go past the first anchor, if you do, I THINK you need a 70m rope. Aug 12, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
I along with friends think this is a super fun route. Very unique compared to other offerings in ferguson and LCC.

I couldn't fit my hips and rack through the deeper chimney start. farther out there is an obvious flake/crack. Both starts seemed kind of hard for the grade. As said pretty cam heavy with all the horizontals. Face out for maximum fun! Oct 3, 2018