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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,805 total, 29/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 30, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

Climb the big chimney just to the left of Extreme Unction. Walk around the first big wall of the Watchtower back into the corner. You can stay out on the face or wedge yourself way into the chimney.

Protection

I top-roped this route from the top of Extreme Unction. It's a great chimney with lots of cracks and seams for trad pro as well.
jawshoeuh
Sandy, UTAH
 
jawshoeuh   Sandy, UTAH
 
A 60 meter works fine. You can step around to the Extreme Unction chains if you don't want to leave gear.

Also we cleared a HUGE rock (300+ lbs) that appeared to be set when I was leading up the Confessional. I hand jammed on it and as soon as I pulled up the rock started sliding. Luckily it stopped, and my partner and I were able to safely drop the rock after making sure the area was clear. This area is still cleaning up so please be careful.

One last thing, someone stole my friend's bag while we were on the tower at two o'clock on a Tuesday..we didn't hear them or see them. wtfuss? Oct 17, 2017
Chris Hfsda
  5.6
Chris Hfsda  
  5.6
I liked it, but my wife didn't. Not too many placements for nuts. Cams are required if you want often pro. The bolts are at the top of fishlips; not an ideal placement if trying to do confessional. There are remnants of an old sling around the top boulder. I assume this was for a better repeat of confessional for tr. I didnt go past the first anchor, if you do, I THINK you need a 70m rope. Aug 12, 2017
Great intro back to into rock climbing for myself. easy to set the top rope up. Nice Chimney to gain your confidence. Protected from the sun mid-late day. Jul 27, 2015
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.6
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.6
I had a blast on this chimney. And that's coming from a a non-chimney lover. Give it a go! It's pretty easy. Jun 10, 2013
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
This is a great chimney climb with great protection and awesome views from above. Very Awkward start. Protect it as best you can before you start climbing. Apr 5, 2011
This is a great first chimney climb. Its easy and pretty fun if you haven't every done a chimney before. You can definitely TR of the extreme unction anchors, but expect a lot of rope drag. Also lowering some one on belay back behind the chock stone at the start is interesting, but not to bad. Sep 16, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.6
Nathan Fisher  
  5.6
Not a bad chimney. I went behind the chockstone. Oh, and it protects very well. Aug 15, 2004