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Routes in Watchtower Main

Beef Jerky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Benediction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Broken Serenity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confessional, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crown of Thorns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Rose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dirge, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cross T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Unction T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels like Nadine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Final Prayer Variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fire and Brimstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fishlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fortress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellfire Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hungry for Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Light TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Invocation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outer Darkness T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Reach the Beach T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Revelation, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rosary, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Prison S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Total X T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total X 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Les Ellison and Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 1,203 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Aug 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This climb is no paradise. A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing. I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up. All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse. The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route. This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.

Location

Climb the crack in the arĂȘte left (East) of Extreme Unction to a ledge. Traverse towards the chimney and head up another crack towards the Watchtower. There is a sling with a ring at the top. I would recommend walking off or rappelling from the chains on a neighboring route.

Protection

Standard trad rack, a blue TCU protects the traverse.

Photos

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Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.9
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.9
I followed and cleaned this today. My buddy had to set up a funky anchor using the huge chock stones up at the top. I ended up just doing a sketchy walk off. Never saw any real anchors up there. Okay route though. Tough start if you're not one for hand jams and a fun finish, but not much in the middle. Jun 22, 2014
Todd Green
SLC, UT
Todd Green   SLC, UT
Couldn't find a sling with a ring on this. There was a bit of torn webbing; perhaps that is all that is left. I used the Extreme Unction anchors to rap. Jun 24, 2010