All Locations > New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbing… > Northern Box areas > Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||Timmy F ?|
|Page Views:||3,280 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis is likely the longest hard sport route at Socorro. I've heard that this is also the best hard sport route, though this is the only hard route I've done here. The route is surprisingly good. The rock looks like choss both from afar, and up close, and the quantity of glue certainly makes you wonder, but I found the rock to be very solid, and enjoyable. If you want juggy thuggery this is not the place for you. Once past the initial boulder problem this route is crimping paradise.
The route starts with a chimney move to gain a big ledge. From the ledge climb horizontally out the arch using the sort of technique you would expect. The most powerful business comes turning the lip. Its not too bad getting to and clipping the fourth bolt, but immediately after the 4th clip a powerful lock-off is required to reach the key hold. Once established on the hanging wall, a decent rest gives way to some glued holds, hard-core crimping and ultra-techy beta. After the traverse right there is another so-so rest, and then the upper crux: devious, insecure face climbing. There are no straight down holds in this section, so don't bother looking. This redpoint crux ends at a horizontal break and no hands rest. Shake well here, as one more sharp crimpy move guards the chains.