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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Timmy F ?
Page Views: 3,260 total, 24/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is likely the longest hard sport route at Socorro. I've heard that this is also the best hard sport route, though this is the only hard route I've done here. The route is surprisingly good. The rock looks like choss both from afar, and up close, and the quantity of glue certainly makes you wonder, but I found the rock to be very solid, and enjoyable. If you want juggy thuggery this is not the place for you. Once past the initial boulder problem this route is crimping paradise.

The route starts with a chimney move to gain a big ledge. From the ledge climb horizontally out the arch using the sort of technique you would expect. The most powerful business comes turning the lip. Its not too bad getting to and clipping the fourth bolt, but immediately after the 4th clip a powerful lock-off is required to reach the key hold. Once established on the hanging wall, a decent rest gives way to some glued holds, hard-core crimping and ultra-techy beta. After the traverse right there is another so-so rest, and then the upper crux: devious, insecure face climbing. There are no straight down holds in this section, so don't bother looking. This redpoint crux ends at a horizontal break and no hands rest. Shake well here, as one more sharp crimpy move guards the chains.

Location

Left end of the wall, at left end of cave opening. The route climbs rightwards out the left arch of the cave for 3 bolts, then turns the lip with some exciting gym-maneuvers. Once over the lip, the route climbs straight up for two bolts, then traverses right to the 6th bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts. Once above the lip, don't be suckered left onto two new bolts in the black streak.

Protection

Bolts
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.13b
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.13b
youtube.com/watch?v=7iYAnpD…

Some choppy video of a recent send. Jan 18, 2016
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
Discussion continued here...... Mar 9, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13b
Also a good choice when you have to carry a 30 pound child and 20 more pounds of stuff for them so I have no desire to hike into Palomas, I beleive the gate to Cochiti is closed and I hate little pockets and tiny edges and it is longer than Child O Light. By the way Mono, did you ever try COL? Mar 9, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
It most certainly validates the idea of having star ratings for the areas and not only climbs. It's an idea that has come up before. I will mention it again to the admins and the site developers. Mar 9, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Well, with ET only an hour further on down the road, its tough for me to give this more than 2 stars. But I appreciate hearing this is "4 stars for Socorro". It validates my decision to avoid climbing at Socorro. I think this is a good route to do once you've done the more classic routes in the area, or a good winter option when Palomas, Cochiti & ET are snowed in. Mar 9, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13b
4 stars for Socorro with out a doubt. Probably even 2 stars at most crags if one can ignore the glue, sometimes it just take a little "special" attention to make things safe and climbable. Not really sure where the actual crux is, but the climb does have 4 nice distinct sections that are broken up by OK rests and a great rest before the end. Mar 8, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13b
Three stars for the diversity of the climbing on generally solid "glued in places" rock. A steep bouldery powerful start, leads to hardcore crimping, then the crux imo, hard gaston / sidepulls in a slight corner system. Originally graded 13c, now considered 13b or c depending on who you ask, probably closer to 13b imo. Feb 23, 2009