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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 679 total, 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb out of the shallow cave on loose flakes that look like they should fall right off. Pull the lip of the cave on underclings to a nice jug, firmly held in place by glue. Pull a technical sequence on small crimps to get established on the headwall.

Continue up following a wondering path encountering an occasional rest mixed in with some hard moves. At the last bolt pull a final hard to read crux to get a jug and a huge reach rightwards to another jug and easier moves to the anchors.

Location

Starts out of the rights side of the cave. Name and an inaccurate 7C grade are written on the rock. There is even an arrow between the inital bolts in case you get lost.

After pulling the lip and obtaining the jug don't continue to head left into "Insider Trading" This is "Fair Trade" 13b/c. Once on the headwall it can be quite confusing about where to go, but while the route meanders back and forth the line generally heads straight up.

Protection

9 Bolts to hidden Anchors until you get past the last bolt. Consider unclipping the first bolt for ropedrag and belayer courtesy.

Photos

lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
It had been forever sense I climbed this route. it is fun with some great rests and a couple interesting cruxes. it should get far more traffic then it does. Dec 21, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
This is a really fun route that wanders quite a bit on the long head wall. Though the start is quite scary, those flakes could use some help. Nov 22, 2008