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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 1,102 total, 12/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 1, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

While the first half of this route consists almost entirely of epoxy reinforced holds, the quality of the climbing more than makes up for the lack of aesthetics.

Rope up next next to the pile of bat guano and climb up some easy but terrifying flakes to the high first bolt. Consider stickclipping if this is your first time on the route. You should be able to clip the second bolt before getting established on the roof. Pull the roof of the cave and pull over the lip to a good sidepull and the third bolt. From here pull some hardcore crimping on miserable holds to a good hold the fourth bolt and a quick shake. Boulder upwards through more hardcore crimping or big power moves depending on your desired technique to a good slot and the fifth bolt. More crimping on slightly better holds leads to a traverse left and a no hands rest where the route joins "Sinister Dane". A fall here could be long and involve a large swing. Fortunately the climbing gets easier as you go. Here the difficulties are largely over but don't get too cocky as one final boulder problem lies ahead.

This route while being considered harder than "Sinister Dane" is much more straight forward. If you enjoy powerful non-technical moves on bad crimps then this might be a great route for you.

A great video of Brandi Proffitt sending this route is shown at: deadpointmag.com/videos/wat…

I used entirely different beta than Brandi for pulling the lip and the third crux. No thumb gastons or high heelhooks for me!

Location

Right side of the cave, opposite of the start for Sinister Dane / Full Penetration.

Protection

7 Bolts to Anchors shared with Sinister Dane. Probably best to backclean the first bolt to help out with rope drag, although watch out for a swinging fall into the rope if you choose this option.
DaveT
Albuquerque
  5.13c
DaveT   Albuquerque
  5.13c
Great climbing on this route! Sustained with some steep burliness and some vertical crimpiness. Felt like a power endurance game with nice cruxes. If the rock was less gluey, I'd give it 3 stars but as such it's hard to give more than 2.

Regarding beta, I did the first and third cruxes differently than both Mike and Brandi, so apparently there are lots of ways to unlock this thing. The second crux looks the same for the three of us.

Regarding the grade, it felt like a step up from Sinister Dane, so 13c seems fair. Mar 5, 2015