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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Andy Mayer
Page Views: 835 total, 9/month
Shared By: Arthur Sullivan on Jan 10, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Starts above the anchors for "New Kids on The Block." Climb about 10 feet through some brush to the first bolt. Runout, a little, but if you were able to get to the starting ledge its probably within your abilities. Then its up the arete with lots exposure past two bolts to a stand up rest. There's loose rocks at the rest so tread carefully. Finish past one bolt over a small bulge to the anchors.

Location

Starts above New Kids on the Block. Second pitch above the rightmost line on the wall.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with 1 chain and a rap ring.

Photos

HarrisonABQ Bucy
Albuquerque, NM
  5.7 PG13
HarrisonABQ Bucy   Albuquerque, NM
  5.7 PG13
Fun moves, but major rope drag if doing it from the bottom of New Kids. I suspect there'd be lot's of rope drag if doing it in two pitches as well since the bolts zig-zag around. May 11, 2015