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> Filet de Papillon Wal…
Almost Blue
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Jean D? |
Page Views: | 1,409 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 22, 2008 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Description
Stick clip the first bolt below the ramp, then scramble up the corner and ramp past the start of Full Penetration/ Sinister Dane and around the corner to a big undercling. Get tall or prehang the second draw and clip. Make a huge move up to a pinch, or match the terrible sloper and go to the pinch. A couple of crimps lead up and to the right and a good hold to clip the 3rd bolt from. Move up and left to a jug, then a long move to and off of a crimpy right handed sidepull gets you to more right facing jugs. From here on the climbing is about 5.10 to 5.11- and very fun.
- If you have to match the sloper this could be a very difficult tick.
- Great line and good rock the only flaw is that it is quite cruxy at the start which may not be a bad thing in some peoples minds.
Photos
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