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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Jean D?
Page Views: 773 total, 7/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Stick clip the first bolt below the ramp, then scramble up the corner and ramp past the start of Full Penetration/ Sinister Dane and around the corner to a big undercling. Get tall or prehang the second draw and clip. Make a huge move up to a pinch, or match the terrible sloper and go to the pinch. A couple of crimps lead up and to the right and a good hold to clip the 3rd bolt from. Move up and left to a jug, then a long move to and off of a crimpy right handed sidepull gets you to more right facing jugs. From here on the climbing is about 5.10 to 5.11- and very fun.

  • If you have to match the sloper this could be a very difficult tick.
  • Great line and good rock the only flaw is that it is quite cruxy at the start which may not be a bad thing in some peoples minds.

Location

Climbs in and around the black streak at the left margin of the cave.

Protection

7 bolts and anchors

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
At 5'6" I was barely able to reach the pinch off the undercling. This will indeed be a very difficult tick if you have to deal with the sloper.

Also the direct start, while kinda chossy is steep with good holds and worth doing. Doesn't make things any more difficult as you can lay down and rest before starting the crux. Dec 8, 2008