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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 983 total · 11/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This challenging route makes for a worthy objective once you've done the better known lines on Dirt wall. While it is somewhat of a variation to Sinister Dane the moves are fun and the line flows well. Just as good as Sinister Dane and it would be three stars if it was the only line in that area of the wall, the Dirt Wall rock quality keeping it from being four stars.

Begin with a burly core intensive boulder problem off the ledge V8 or so, (pre-clip the first two bolts) to a good rest over the lip. Here join Sinister Dane through its double bump crimp crux while clipping the bolts to the left in the black streak. Where Sinister Dane cuts right, continue up on fantastic rock with good feet and marginal hand holds for the red-point crux. Latch the horizontal break and continue up the shared finish with Sinister Dane and Insider Trading, which you probably have wired by this time.

Location

Begins off the same ledge out the left side of the cave as Sinister Dane and Full Penetration. Clip the bolts a few feet left of Sinister Dane and climb out the overhanging arete. Once on the hanging face join Sinister Dane for a few moves but continue straight up where Sinister Dane breaks right. At the horizontal finish with Sinister Dane and Insider Trading.

Protection

9 Bolts to Anchors, mandatory pre-clipping of the first 2 to keep you off the ledge. The first bolt being just off the ledge to keep the rope out of your way. I used a long sling on the 1st and 7th bolts, and ended up skipping the 3rd and 6th bolts.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
I don't think one could be any more prepared for an attempt of the route. This is an excellent write up. Jul 3, 2013