Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lorne Rainey???
Page Views: 1,781 total · 13/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Don't get smoked. A slightly overhanging, difficult start off the ground leads to more fun thin crimping and sidepulls on a near vertical face, to the anchor on the ledge.

An extension of the route continues up and left (see comments below and the route description for it).

Location

4th climb from the right end of Dirt Wall.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Dave Wachter  
 
Really, really fun. Like Little Caterpillar, it's an amazingly good route considering how short it is. Can climb this to the finishing ledge, take a nap, then continue up from the left end of the ledge to the top of Duran Duran for an exciting short addition (probably 11+ variation). Can hang draws on Duran Duran from there if you're inclined. Dec 12, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Originally 4 bolts to the ledge, there is now a 5th bolt before the ledge if you want to do the new extention which is 8 bolts and anchors. From the left end of the ledge work up to the right end of the horizontal. A hidden pinch out right and a few nice pockets take you up the steep head wall to an anchor right of Duran Duran. TR'd previousely by Dave S and Claude, then by myself and finally bolted by Lance, I think. Grade seemed about 5.12.

Have Fun. Mar 31, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
I clipped 7 bolts today (no extension, just to the ledge), so I think a few were more recently added. Apr 17, 2016