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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lorne Rainey???
Page Views: 1,663 total, 14/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Don't get smoked. A slightly overhanging, difficult start off the ground leads to more fun thin crimping and sidepulls on a near vertical face, to the anchor on the ledge.

An extension of the route continues up and left (see comments below and the route description for it).

Location

4th climb from the right end of Dirt Wall.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
 
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
 
I clipped 7 bolts today (no extension, just to the ledge), so I think a few were more recently added. Apr 17, 2016
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Originally 4 bolts to the ledge, there is now a 5th bolt before the ledge if you want to do the new extention which is 8 bolts and anchors. From the left end of the ledge work up to the right end of the horizontal. A hidden pinch out right and a few nice pockets take you up the steep head wall to an anchor right of Duran Duran. TR'd previousely by Dave S and Claude, then by myself and finally bolted by Lance, I think. Grade seemed about 5.12.

Have Fun. Mar 31, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
Really, really fun. Like Little Caterpillar, it's an amazingly good route considering how short it is. Can climb this to the finishing ledge, take a nap, then continue up from the left end of the ledge to the top of Duran Duran for an exciting short addition (probably 11+ variation). Can hang draws on Duran Duran from there if you're inclined. Dec 12, 2008