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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 561 total · 5/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Some sharp holds and big moves lead up to a left hand gaston jug at the second bolt. Easier climbing gains the mid-anchor. After the mid-anchor a couple of scary hollow underclings allow you to reach up either right or left to some edges, terrible feet through here, and eventually up to a sharp slot/pocket on a sloper. From here easier climbing on bigger holds with long moves takes you to the top of the wall.

Location

Second route right of Window Shopping. Stars either off the top of the flake from where you can clip the first bolt or from lower between the flake and the wall at the top of a pillar/point feature.

Protection

Bolts to a mid-anchor and bolts to a top anchor.

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a/b
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a/b
I got on this thing for the first time about 15 years ago or so, and my guide book has an annotation on how loose, dangerous and crappy red tag is. I finally got back on it this year, and was surprised at how well it cleaned up. This is actually a very fun route now. Jan 31, 2014
lance hadfield
tijeras
 
lance hadfield   tijeras
 
fun with brief cruxes and easier climbing in the middle. Dec 21, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Doesn't seem like the pinch / undercling at the crux will be around much longer. I felt it flex as I moved past it and was afraid of ripping it off. This one will get alot harder once this goes. Nov 30, 2008