Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,990 total · 14/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This teenage heartthrob of the late 1980s made many a 13-year old girl scream.

This is a good warm-up for the harder climbs to the left, and from the ledge at the top, you can set topropes on the next 3 climbs to the left.

Crimp and sidepull your way up to a 2-bolt anchor on a big ledge. It's fun climbing, with a few great pocket holds that turn out to be even better than they first appear that allow you to shake out.

A 4 bolt extension to this route called Inchworm Arete continues up the arete above this ledge to another 2-bolt anchor (5.8). You can climb this as 2 pitches, or as one long pitch (a 60m rope is long enough to reach all the way up and lower back to the ground). This extension isn't shown in the RC:NM guidebook.

Location

The right-most route on Dirt Wall. Starts just left of a block.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge (shared with Little Caterpillar). Another 4 bolts if continuing up Inchworm Arete.

Photos

Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  5.10a
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  5.10a
The extension (or 2nd pitch if you break it up) is called "Inchworm Arete" 5.8/9, put up by Andy Mayer in October 1996. Nice exposure between bolts 2 and 3 beyond the New Kids ledge, a very cool section of climbing. Andy considered putting in two more bolts, one here and one before the anchor. He may have added those after the last time I climbed it (a long time ago) but didn't notate it if he did. The runouts didn't seem too bad. Jan 5, 2010