Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 1,267 total, 11/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The original route in this area was originally bolted by John Duran, however guides warned that it was an unsafe project with one of the low bolts being in a loose flake. It was later re-bolted by Timy Fairfield to create two routes, that share mid anchors and a bolt in the middle of the route.

After Stick Clipping the first bolt, (Holds definitely have the potential to break) negotiate the tricky to read start, and a powerful traverse right. After a few more big lockoffs things ease up to a nice rest at the intermediate anchors. 11c to here.

After clipping the upper of the anchor bolts, make a tricky move to get established above the slight overhang. Another hard sequence leads you to the next bolt. This section is a bit scary as you are making hard moves above your last bolt with the rest ledge below. However my partner fell here several times and never hit the ledge.

Head right, (the other new route heads left here) to a nice jug provides a resting opportunity for the stellar crux above, pulling the final bulge on slopers. There is another nice opportunity for big air here, but this time there is nothing to hit. This upper section is easily three stars.

Also possible to traverse into the upper section from the top of Bob Marley and Master Ganj. This is probably the best way to access this piece of rock.

Location

This route is where the formerly dangerous route with bolts in the loose flake was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the intermediate anchor.

First route left of Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 11b, or the 5th route from the right side of the crag.

Protection

Bolts to Chain Anchors, Stick Clip

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Didn't try the 5.12a extension, but I felt the 5.11c to the mid-anchor was well worth doing in its own right (as good as Master Ganj). Rock quality seemed good enough, but would recommend stick clipping b1.

Dirt Wall hosts a handful of good 5.11s that stop at the mid-anchors; check out the list on the Dirt Wall page for details. Apr 21, 2016
John E. Duran
Beijing, Chaoyang distrtict
John E. Duran   Beijing, Chaoyang distrtict
Craig Keaty bolted it. I sent it. A temp. dependent affair on thin, delicate (loose) flakes and so so fun. I repeated it several stellar times not using the MG/... finish, but staying on the line. Dec 14, 2009
lance hadfield
tijeras
  5.12b
lance hadfield   tijeras
  5.12b
this is a great climb but I broke a hold at the rest and the hold after 1st anchor are very loose. Nov 23, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Dangerously loose holds getting past the mid-anchor on this one. The sharp right facing jug was shedding pits and pieces today and the other 2 holds above the 3 huecos are quite hollow as well.

  • Belayers beware when your climber is moving past the mid-anchor.

Though strangely enough the rock becomes perfect just above this point. Nov 22, 2008
Dave Wachter
  5.12a/b
Dave Wachter  
  5.12a/b
Great route. 3 separate bouldery sections, with a no-hands rest between the first and second. Felt a bit harder than 12a, and a lot harder than 12a when in full sun (upper cruxes involve pulling through slopers). The sun hits the route at about noon in mid-fall, so get an early start and call ahead for your Burrito Tyme order. Nov 8, 2008