Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 1,333 total · 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The original route in this area was originally bolted by John Duran, however guides warned that it was an unsafe project with one of the low bolts being in a loose flake. It was later re-bolted by Timy Fairfield to create two routes, that share mid anchors and a bolt in the middle of the route.

After Stick Clipping the first bolt, (Holds definitely have the potential to break) negotiate the tricky to read start, and a powerful traverse right. After a few more big lockoffs things ease up to a nice rest at the intermediate anchors. 11c to here.

After clipping the upper of the anchor bolts, make a tricky move to get established above the slight overhang. Another hard sequence leads you to the next bolt. This section is a bit scary as you are making hard moves above your last bolt with the rest ledge below. However my partner fell here several times and never hit the ledge.

Head right, (the other new route heads left here) to a nice jug provides a resting opportunity for the stellar crux above, pulling the final bulge on slopers. There is another nice opportunity for big air here, but this time there is nothing to hit. This upper section is easily three stars.

Also possible to traverse into the upper section from the top of Bob Marley and Master Ganj. This is probably the best way to access this piece of rock.

Location

This route is where the formerly dangerous route with bolts in the loose flake was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the intermediate anchor.

First route left of Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 11b, or the 5th route from the right side of the crag.

Protection

Bolts to Chain Anchors, Stick Clip

Photos

Dave Wachter
  5.12a/b
Dave Wachter  
  5.12a/b
Great route. 3 separate bouldery sections, with a no-hands rest between the first and second. Felt a bit harder than 12a, and a lot harder than 12a when in full sun (upper cruxes involve pulling through slopers). The sun hits the route at about noon in mid-fall, so get an early start and call ahead for your Burrito Tyme order. Nov 8, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Dangerously loose holds getting past the mid-anchor on this one. The sharp right facing jug was shedding pits and pieces today and the other 2 holds above the 3 huecos are quite hollow as well.

  • Belayers beware when your climber is moving past the mid-anchor.

Though strangely enough the rock becomes perfect just above this point. Nov 22, 2008
lance hadfield
tijeras
  5.12b
lance hadfield   tijeras
  5.12b
this is a great climb but I broke a hold at the rest and the hold after 1st anchor are very loose. Nov 23, 2008
John Emerson Duran
Shunyi distrtict, Beijing, CN
John Emerson Duran   Shunyi distrtict, Beijing, CN
Craig Keaty bolted it. I sent it. A temp. dependent affair on thin, delicate (loose) flakes and so so fun. I repeated it several stellar times not using the MG/... finish, but staying on the line. Dec 14, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Didn't try the 5.12a extension, but I felt the 5.11c to the mid-anchor was well worth doing in its own right (as good as Master Ganj). Rock quality seemed good enough, but would recommend stick clipping b1.

Dirt Wall hosts a handful of good 5.11s that stop at the mid-anchors; check out the list on the Dirt Wall page for details. Apr 21, 2016