All Locations > New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbin… > Northern Box areas > Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,299 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Shirtless Mike on Mar 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThe original route in this area was originally bolted by John Duran, however guides warned that it was an unsafe project with one of the low bolts being in a loose flake. It was later re-bolted by Timy Fairfield to create two routes, that share mid anchors and a bolt in the middle of the route.
After Stick Clipping the first bolt, (Holds definitely have the potential to break) negotiate the tricky to read start, and a powerful traverse right. After a few more big lockoffs things ease up to a nice rest at the intermediate anchors. 11c to here.
After clipping the upper of the anchor bolts, make a tricky move to get established above the slight overhang. Another hard sequence leads you to the next bolt. This section is a bit scary as you are making hard moves above your last bolt with the rest ledge below. However my partner fell here several times and never hit the ledge.
Head right, (the other new route heads left here) to a nice jug provides a resting opportunity for the stellar crux above, pulling the final bulge on slopers. There is another nice opportunity for big air here, but this time there is nothing to hit. This upper section is easily three stars.
Also possible to traverse into the upper section from the top of Bob Marley and Master Ganj. This is probably the best way to access this piece of rock.
LocationThis route is where the formerly dangerous route with bolts in the loose flake was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the intermediate anchor.
First route left of Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 11b, or the 5th route from the right side of the crag.