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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 482 total, 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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This short powerful route is more sustained than it looks and has solid rock making it worth doing when your not sure what else to get on.

Start in a rounded dihedral and head up to the first bolt, make a hard bouldery reach out right to a key crimp and work up into a slopey hueco. A positive pocket or a higher jug work well for clipping the second bolt. Work up into the large hueco, clip the third bolt or fourth bolt and make a large reach for jugs on the ledge above.

Apparently at one time there were only 3 bolts, there are now 4, maybe the fourth is for accessing the new route above the ledge. I clipped all of them and topped out above the 4th bolt.

Can be used as access for the new route above.


Far left side of Dirt Wall, Just left of the start for Almost Blue. Starts in a rounded corner. There is another route starting to the left called "Uncle Fester gets Sent in Europe" that is 12c, and some linkup getting a 13a.


4 Bolts to Anchors


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Brototype Winkler
The Bay Area
Brototype Winkler   The Bay Area
I actually really enjoyed this climb. Though it's quite short, the movement is good and fairly sustained until you clip the last bolt before heading to the chains. The "third" bolt out left is on a separate route and not worth clipping as it will put you a little out of sequence for the move into the under-cling pocket. Would be a great route if it were longer. Feb 4, 2012