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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Orlando Romero & Jeremy Aslaksen 6/10 - Anchors Vaino Kodas 3/10
Page Views: 557 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 11, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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This new route climbs up the chossy looking wall before you arrive at Dirt wall. Most of the holds are pretty good and the cruxes are short, the difficulty comes in trusting that the holds won't break and your hands and feet won't slip off the dirty holds. Start up an easy ramp for several bolts to a trickier section on slightly better rock. Traverse slightly right to a good horizontal rest, then pull the steeper upper headwall using dubious and slightly scary holds.

Maybe closer to a bomb in quality, but might be decent with some more cleaning. The grade is my best guess.


Along the left on the approach as you hike up the hill to dirt wall. About 3/4 of the way up the trail. Starts just off the trail.


9 Bolts to Anchors


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This route is 96 Degrees, as in,” "It was 96 degrees in the shade. So hot in the shade." from the Third World song. It was bolted by myself (Orlando Romero) and Jeremy Aslaksen in record 104-degree temps during June '10. We climbed it on TR to clean it and figure out bolt placements, but since Jeremy was recovering from a busted foot and I was on the verge of heatstroke, we haven’t had a chance to redpoint it yet. So technically, someone else poached the FA (maybe DTP?).
On that note, when we rapped in we found an existing anchor, not visible from the ground, to climbers right of where we intended to put our anchor. It looked good, though probably at least a couple of years old and we pondered whether or not to bolt, but after the TR we saw no chalk or signs of cleaning so we went ahead and put it up. Apologies to anyone if WE poached your project, but it had been untouched for years and looked very much abandoned, and, as previously mentioned, we were on the verge of heatstroke.
We cleaned HUNDREDS of pounds of rock off this thing before we dropped the bolts in, and we both agreed that we thought it would be decent with more cleaning, traffic, etc. Having said that, yes, it’s still a bit loose and it will take some more effort to get out of the bomb bay, but it’s decently long and moderate and we thought it’d make a good addition to the Dirt Wall. But we’ll see. And at the last bolt, DO NOT WANDER right onto the hanging gargoyle; hard to tell how secure that thing is, but it's probably best not to find out…
We guessed about 10c/d; I think it’s harder than New Kids, but then again, I think New Kids is 10a/b and I’m short. And, of course, it may get harder if crux holds break (a real possibility). The 9 bolts are 3/8 X 3-inch Powers (black hangers) climbing to a 2BA with chains (difficult to see from the ground). The first bolt is under a bulge, so use a long draw to avoid trashing your rope (sorry ‘bout that – again, heatstroke). Mar 16, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Thanks for the info guys. Vaino installed the anchor in 3/10 and we TR'd it a few times, but didn't clean it up. I imagine the little bit of chalk would have washed off by then. I believe Vaino was planning on coming back to do the cleaning and install the bolts at some point in the near future. Hopefully with enough traffic it will clean up and be a good climb. Mar 16, 2011
Three months? Damn, those bolts didn't look that new and seeing that they were two different kinds of bolts, we thought for sure that it was someone's step-child project, at best. Sorry, Vaino, if we stole your line.
Might be a good idea to get Vaino's name into the FA. Just a thought. Mar 17, 2011

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