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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 670 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This line has fun movement but the difficulties are short and the rock is sub-par even for dirt wall. A quick crux off the ground passing the second and third bolts leads to substantially easier ground and the mid anchors. 12a to here.

From the great rest on the ledge continue up the right facing dihedral passing a hidden bolt. At the top of the dihedral snag a nice rest on top of the now detached flake, clip another bolt, and pull the hard, reach dependent crux. After the crux continue on smaller holds past another bolt to the top of the wall and the anchors.

I found the crux really hard with this so I'm going with the original grade of 12d. Perhaps it is easier for taller people or maybe I was missing something.

I also found the crux moves scary as I had my foot cammed behind the flake making for a potentially bad fall, so I hung 6ft of draws off the last bolt so I could clip high before entering the crux section.

Location

The 2nd route right of red tag sale.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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