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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield, Bill Sprague and John Kear February 08
Page Views: 544 total, 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

With excellent rock and challenging movement this new variation is one of the better, lines on the wall. It's only detractions are sharp rock, and being slightly squeezed between the other lines on the wall.

Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.

I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.

Location

Shares start, mid-anchors, and first bolt with Dreadlock Holiday. Starts just right of "Red Tag Sale" and Left of "If you can't do it Glue it"

Protection

10 bolts to anchors

Photos

John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
Timy and Bill Sprague bolted this one and I got to do either the first or second ascent. Bill and Timy named this one Speadlock Holiday. It was rated 12c. Dec 19, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Uugh...SHARP, the holds out the upper bit are pretty viscous, relatively easy to hold for their size since they bite back. Mar 8, 2009