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New Mexico
> Socorro Area
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> Filet de Papillon Wal…
Spreadlock Holiday
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
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96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Inchworm Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New Kids on the Block S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Corn V9 7C |
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Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Social Distancing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Timy Fairfield, Bill Sprague and John Kear February 08 |
| Page Views: | 1,225 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Feb 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
With excellent rock and challenging movement this new variation is one of the better, lines on the wall. It's only detractions are sharp rock, and being slightly squeezed between the other lines on the wall.
Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.
I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.
Start up the first half of Dreadlock Holiday pulling one hard move at the second bolt. Catch a no-hands rest at the mid anchors, clip the first shared bolt and head straight up the upper headwall. The climbing is entertaining with no hard moves. The crux is enduring the pump, a hard last clip, and one final hard move getting established on the easy slab above the last bolt.
I'm not sure of the exact name of this, or if it even has a independant name. Also the grade is my best guess, so climb it and post up your thoughts.
2 Comments