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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,049 total, 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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22 Opinions

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Description

This route is in your face crimping nearly the entire way. If you just stopped by on your way back from Enchanted Tower this thing will feel pretty hard for the grade. Like most routes here, this is essentially a long boulder problem with small sharp holds and few rests. Rather technical.

Location

This is at the far right end of the wall, 2nd route from the right. There's a huge flat boulder just above the start that's excellent for viewing and/or TR belaying.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Dave Wachter  
 
Yeah, I sliced into the pad of a finger on my left hand, and had little bruises on several other fingertips. Climbing was so engrossing I didn't notice the pain until I got back to the ground, though. Another funky Socorro classic! I'm upping the ante on stars. Dec 12, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.12b
I found it technical but my beta apparently was completely different than DTP's. After finally sending my fingers were close to bloody. The crimps are pretty sharp. Dec 1, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12b
I found this route to be more powerful than technical, but maybe I just substituted power for technique. This route packs alot for only being 35 feet long. Hard crimping and several long deadpoints passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Mar 17, 2008