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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 1,535 total, 13/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

While not the most aesthetic route in the world, this cave route tackles some of the steepest rock in central NM, and certainly Socorro. Short and steep with the crux at the start, this route should be a boulderer's dream.

Start with an easy chimney to a large ledge. Off the ledge pull the technical crux, a tricky boulder problem on mostly good holds. Passing the third and fourth bolts stressful rest opportunities abound. After the 4th bolt turn and head towards the anchors at the roof of the cave. Hang on passing another bolt on mostly jugs, and one really pitiful hold until you can stem to the backside of the cave and a much appreciated no hands rest. Chimney up a move or two and clip the anchors.

Don't get hung up on the 13b grade as listed in the old Sal Maestas guide, this route is clearly much easier. It isn't listed in either Rock Climbing NM Falcon guides.

If you head straight out the cave from the fourth fixed chain draw to the manky fixed draw, this is Mating Ritual 12c. This is simply an easier version of Full Penetration, and doesn't really contain any new moves.

Location

On the left side of the wall, at the left end of the cave. Shares start and first three bolts with Sinister Dane.

To spot the line, look for the 4 new fixed chain draws. Climb these fixed draws out the arch. Before hitting the older shorter fixed draw on the right side of the cave, turn and head directly for the anchors in the roof of the cave. You will pass one more bolt on the way to the anchors.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors. First four draws are fixed.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Fixed draws? That sucks. Feb 8, 2013
Try not to get a disease clipping the anchors. Feb 15, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Never done this, but I've heard others call it 13a, FWIW. If the crux is in the first 3 bolts, then its probably closer to 12+. Feb 4, 2008